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33gtr High Idle After Throttle Body Gaskets Replaced

cefiro

By cefiro,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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rb26s13 Mentor

rb26s13

Posted
Posted
My mechanic used nail polish.

Have the t/b's in the closed position, apply the polish around the edge of the butterfly, on the side that the butterfly moves away from the seal, leave for a few hours then just open the throttle bodies.

thats interesting.. will definately have to remember that

cefiro Experienced

cefiro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Guys thanks for the replies, much appreciated. Mechanic told me when I picked it up that the inside of the throttle bodies was terrible, and that he used carby cleaner and a brush to remove the gunk/sludge which was about 0.5m thick, yeah sounds like taken the sealing off. I rang nissan and its $1k for a new set of throttle bodies with the linkages as well (not for me but the mechanic to get). Can I ask GTRGeoff what brand your special brand of blue silicone is??? I also ran compressed air through the intake and no leaks anywhere, it also has a slight backfire with closed throttle while decelerating which meas air is getting in.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

Just lob into autobarn or supercheap and look on the shelves for the ultra blue gasket. Nail polish sounds good, but becomes very hard and may not adhere very well if some fuel gets backfired into the throttles or some oiling of the intake occurs through the crankcase return.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

got any pics geoff? its about time someone came up with a fix for this problem.....

incidently the workshop manual doesnt say anything about not cleaning the throttles either. but every time i hear about a gtr with a high idle it turns out to be someone has cleaned the throttle bodies

MAD R32 GTR ! Collaborator

MAD R32 GTR !

Posted
Posted

hey mate!

I had this exact problem last time i did a rebuild on my rb26dett. You'd think that cleaning out the throttle bodies would do a world of difference but its totally opposite. Although they look really dirty i just don't touch them now. You can clean the gasket surfaces but not the bore where the butterfly seals on. Yes they do use some sort of sealing compound in the factory to minimize this idle problem.

If your from Sydney i know that SAS out at silverwater fixed mine up, They have that sealant out there. Doesn't take long just take the throttle bodies out there

Next time try not to clean the bores out :thumbsup:

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
"doesnt take long to pull the throttles out" Are you kidding! Or have you never done it, to R&R its a full day job

I think he means that it doesn't take too long for SAS to reapply the sealant to the t/b's, and was not referring to the task of removing the t/b's from the engine.

4drftn Experienced

4drftn

Posted
Posted

wish i seen this info 2 days ago.

just cleaned the throttle body on my R33 gts-t.

my car always idles high and fluctuates. but after cleaning t/b it doesnt fluctuate, justs idles at 1500 and after driving 2500!. i adjusted my tps and managed to drop idle to 1000-1100 which i can handle... for now...

with this blue gasket sealant idea... wouldnt you risk blocking the small hole you can see infront of the butterfly... iv noticed the hole inside the t/b leads air to the top right of the t/b into a piece of vac hose that goes onto piping located on the bottom of the crossover which leads to the charcoal cannister.

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

The blue sealant lasts for years in other applications. You have to be very sparing for joining the interfaces between components and likewise the throttles. I recall Ben at Racepace Melbourne prefers the blue instead of paper gaskets as well.

cefiro Experienced

cefiro

Posted
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Posted

Thanks Geoff, I just came back from the mechanic and its going in again on friday, I told him that hes prob going to need to reseal the TB,s with gasket sealer and he said no worries I actually have some teflon stuff, so I hope all goes well. Now it seems the car is going into saftey mode, not all the time just ocasionally when I am driving which prob mens its knocking or something is playing up?? think I will have to put the restrictor back in the actuator and wait til I get a Power fc. There is no way to get the codes from a 33GTR without a consult cable?? ahh why cant the car run without problems. I was hoping to get some 2860r -7 soon too. Anyone know when the GTR will hit saftey boost??????

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
wish i seen this info 2 days ago.

just cleaned the throttle body on my R33 gts-t.

my car always idles high and fluctuates. but after cleaning t/b it doesnt fluctuate, justs idles at 1500 and after driving 2500!. i adjusted my tps and managed to drop idle to 1000-1100 which i can handle... for now...

with this blue gasket sealant idea... wouldnt you risk blocking the small hole you can see infront of the butterfly... iv noticed the hole inside the t/b leads air to the top right of the t/b into a piece of vac hose that goes onto piping located on the bottom of the crossover which leads to the charcoal cannister.

I am pretty sure this does not apply to GTSTs.

Sounds like you have an air leak elsewhere

cefiro Experienced

cefiro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Dropped car off this morning and picked it up this arvo, still having issues but they are trying to get me to replace the AAC unit, they believe it to be a loose spring. I was thinking that yeah maybe possible but then I thought if the car was leaking in air around the TB initially (which it certainly was) And it was idleing nice when it went in, then sealing the TB with gaskets should cause it to drop in idle not raise it. I knew it wouldnt be fixed today. So now tomorrow it needs to go back, I wish I thought a little quicker when I was there to think of this.

Now if they refuse to take it apart I am just going to do it myself, now for anyone who has done this. I remove the TB and then paint a circle around the TB on the side closest to the engine, let it dry, cut and open TB and reinstall.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

The top half of the t/b's need to be "painted" on one side and the bottom half on the other. The butterly has to move away from the seal, not scrap over it.

Can't understand why you're giving up so easily. Tell then, if they want to replace the AAC valve you're happy to let them do so and pay for it; after you have seen that it fixes the problem. If the problem is not fixed, they could keep the AAC valve and do what they have been told.

cefiro Experienced

cefiro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks AI, I am just so annoyed and impatient with things, I just want it fixed. I hate driving the car if there is something wrong with it as it just frustrates me. Yeah thats a good point, I have holidays for the next two weeks so it would be nice to get it fixed in the time off. Will let you know. Appreciate the support.

Ben

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