Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to upgrade my brakes on my R34 Non Turbo as my fronts are 280 and rears are 265mm. Rather than start a new thread I thought it would be best to keep it in this one.

It seems clear that the R33 GTSt brakes are the bolt on way to go, however, a garage in Brisbane that specialises in Jap imports has told me that I'll also need the uprights for the front brakes.

Does this simply mean the upright arms? Or is it possible to just replace the rotors and calipers?

If someone can point me in the right direction that will be awesome.

Also if seems that all the rear brakes are the same and will bolt straight in nothing else needed? If someone can confirm that also?

I'm not so concerned about brake line compatiblity right now as I've been wanting to change them anyway so I'll get custom lines made.

Mate.

Do you know if the bolt diametre is 12 or 14mm? 34 GTT's are 14mm and 33/32 GTSt's are 12mm. I'm not sure what NA 34's are. Find this out first and a straight swap should be made easier for 33 or 34 turbo brakes. Obviously 34 GTT brakes would be better as the are 310mm and 33 GTSt's are 296mm.

The reason I ask is if you have 14mm holes then you can't just bolt on the 33 brakes.

I put 310mm 34 GTT brakes on my 32 and had to drill the holes out to 14mm to fit the bolts and they've been awesome.

The upgrade for you would be more worthwhile for the better caliper rather than just rotor size.

R34 brakes would be nice, but the R33 GTSt brakes are a lot easier to come by and the price pays a factor here too, trying to upgrade without blowing budget out as I'm almost ready to do a turbo conversion. It seems that the R33 GTSt brakes are the best all round budget upgrade for a non-turbo R34.

Is it easy to tell what size bolts are on the calipers without taking anything apart? If they are 12mm, shouldn't this mean that they should just be a bolt on caliper?

Also with these uprights, I'm a bit unsure as to exactly what I need, whether I need just the upright arms or the hubs as well.

If they are 12mm then they are a bolt on for 33 calipers. If 14mm then they are bolt on for 34 calipers and you would need new hubs for 33 calipers $$$. What I'm saying is that 34 might be cheaper in the long run if they bolt straight on and they are bigger as a bonus.

You'll have to take one of the caliper bolts off and measure the hole with verniers.

I'm not sure about the suspension etc??? Maybe find out if they are different to GTT's?

I know that suspension varies from GT and GTT in the R34, I learned this when I changed the shocks.

When I called the garage that will be doing my turbo, they said that they just recently put R33 turbo brakes on a non-turbo R34 and I'd need the front uprights, 4 discs, 4 calipers, pads and lines.

So I've been able to get a good price on front uprights & hubs, and 4 discs and pads with plenty of meat on them, and set of front and rear calipers still with lines in tact.

So we'll see how it goes when I get them swapped over and I'll post back.

Thanks for the help mate.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just an udpate, I had the brake conversion done yesterday, and everything went smoothly except the fronts they modified the exisiting uprights/hubs to suit the new calipers as opposed to changing them.

Brake west provided braided lines as per the measurements I took, so if anyone else is wanting to do the same they would have the measurements for the lines.

Rears were just changed over and it was noted that they removed the rear brake heat shields.

Master cylinder was just a straight swap, which is ideal if you you are going from 280 / 265 rotors to a bigger size in both front and rear.

Hope this helps others in the future :P

  • 10 months later...

THREAD REVIVAL

big problem when trying to fit R33 GTST brakes to my R34 NA today.

They DONT fit unless some mods are done.

R34 GT bolts at 14mm,

R33 GTST are 12mm.

so i could do it dodgely and just bolt the 12mm bolts on but then it means the bolts wont be sitting evenly with the hub and can cause future issues.

a way to resolve this is to use a sleeve to make the 14mm hole reduced to 12mm - Does anyone know who can do this in Sydney?

If not, sell up and get R34 GTT brakes which is what im going to do atm unless i find a mobile syd guy who can do the sleeve.

very disappointed as im rolling on twin pot for a little while longer :(:D

oh cool... Would it be cheaper and better to buy slotted rotors instead of resurfacing my stock ones? i have a terrible shudder during braking.. I'm guessing i glazed the rotors, got a little carried away when i went for a drive in the weekend lol!!! the cars done 111,000ks now btw

Edited by R34 -_-

shuddering sounds more like warped discs. If they're overly glazed they'll be very smooth and mirror like, lacking bite.

Machining the discs (provided you have enough thickness left to machine) would be cheaper. The expensive part is the labour. If you take the discs in yourself its a lot more affordable.

Buying an extra pair of rotors is good for being able to interchange between machining for the sake of convenience.

  • 1 month later...
THREAD REVIVAL

big problem when trying to fit R33 GTST brakes to my R34 NA today.

They DONT fit unless some mods are done.

R34 GT bolts at 14mm,

R33 GTST are 12mm.

so i could do it dodgely and just bolt the 12mm bolts on but then it means the bolts wont be sitting evenly with the hub and can cause future issues.

a way to resolve this is to use a sleeve to make the 14mm hole reduced to 12mm - Does anyone know who can do this in Sydney?

If not, sell up and get R34 GTT brakes which is what im going to do atm unless i find a mobile syd guy who can do the sleeve.

very disappointed as im rolling on twin pot for a little while longer :D;)

QUOTED FOR TRUTH.

I'd like to know why anyone claims 33 GTS-T calipers are a boltup whereas 34 GT-T ones are not. This is not true.

My friend has a RB25 R34 GT (NOT a GT-V) and his brakes needed major attention - we have a seized caliper, low pads, and a cracked rotor. He wanted better performance so rather than spend the money on stock replacements we decided to go the extra mile and upgrade to Turbo brakes. His GT as standard has Single piston, sliding rear calipers and Twin piston, sliding front calipers.

Read up and saw that 34 GT uses 12mm bolts and that 33 GTST calipers are a boltup. Got all new everything. Rears seem to boltup, upon research / inspection / comparison I believe the 33 GTST and 34 GT-T share the same rears. Fronts however are different. In any case, got all 33 GTST calipers (all 4 corners) and discs.

No bolts came with the 33 calipers, attempting to use the ones from the car revealed they were too large.

I very recently bought my own R34 GT-T and compared the bolts from my calipers to that of his GT. They are identical. Literally, I had both cars side by side, both with a wheel and brakes removed. Good luck to anyone who wants to argue the fact. Both cars use a 14mm shaft, with a 22mm hex head on the front end. Managed to get my hands on some 34 GT-T front calipers, I test fitted those tonight, borrowing a disc from my GT-T and everything fit just fine. Bolts straight up. The only modification necessary is to cut/remove/whatever the dust shield behind the rotor, as it hinders fitting of the larger disc. Apart from that, however, no issues.

The bodies of the caliper (33GTST vs 34GTT) appear very similar, the same infact, the only difference I can see is that the mounting parts / standoffs on the 34 caliper are a bit taller (to space it the extra 14mm or so to clear the 310mm disc as opposed to the 296mm disc) and have the 14mm thread rather than the 12mm. They appear to use the same pads.

For 33 GTS-T calipers to work you would either need to sleeve the hub mount holes to accommodate a 12mm bolt (to stop the caliper from rattling around), or to drill and tap the caliper mounts to accommodate the larger bolts.

Now I've got 2 x R33 GTS-T calipers and a new pair of discs which are of no use to me. The only blessing I guess is we will end up with the better brake package once we're through the job.

If anyone is looking to do this conversion I would strongly recommend first removing and checking what their car has. Check the size of the mounting holes, and the diameter of the bolt shaft. As a quick way to check, the 14mm bolts (atleast the ones on my 2 34's do anyway) require a 22mm spanner/socket to undo. The 12mm ones will have a smaller hex head, I'm not sure exactly but if I recall other nissans of past I suspect they would require a 19mm spanner / socket.

Edited by Rake

I'm another victim here.

In short, whoever said R33 4-pot calipers fit on R34 n/a's needs a good ass whooping.

R33 4-pot calipers will NOT (I repeat NOT) fit on R34 n/a. But as per above ^^ R34 4-pot calipers will fit fine on a R34 n/a.

Stupid ass mofo's who wasted my money lol

Edited by Chang

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...