Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i need to know the best place in Sydney to take my car in for engine rebuild as i may need to change piston rings. i need mechanics who won't overcharge me and do the job like they have done before efficiently and perfectly.

There are plenty of good shops around, but why do you think you only need to change the rings? If your motor is tired then you will at least need to do the pistons and rings together. They will need to hone the bores if you are lucky (not too worn or scored) or bore them out if they need to be cleaned more than a hone.

While you are doing all this you might as well change the oil pump, have the rods cleaned and inspected (maybe shot peened), etc. Since the head has to come off to do this, you might as well do it too. Do a valve grind and possibly replace the valve guides or at least the seals.

The objective of a rebuild is generally to return/enhance the core strength and tolerances of a motor and that takes a lot more than just replacing a few items.

I doubt you'd find a reputable shop that'd only do the rings.

(my 2 cents)

thanks alot with the help! yeah im thinking doing exactly wat u said "pezhead" but yer i need a workshop who knows wat they're doing like wat other things to look for potential damage. How much do you think it'll cost to do all what you said?

BTW nobody recommends shops such as belgarage, CRD and etc? are the just good in performance mods and not rebuilding an engine? who are the reputable engine builders? i'd appreciate it very much.

BTW nobody recommends shops such as belgarage, CRD and etc? are the just good in performance mods and not rebuilding an engine? who are the reputable engine builders? i'd appreciate it very much.

They're good but you pay a lot for their experience.

A mate just got his engine (SR20) built from http://www.stmarysengines.com.au/, they did the head work / machining / fitting etc, and my mate providing the parts (cams / pistons / rods / timing gear)... They seem to be very good so far, and we'd heard nothing but good things.

Other than that, almost EVERY workshop send your block/heads to specalists for machining etc..

Edited by TommO
yep but they also send the heads away for machining and such. i guess there are just no workshops who acutally do the head work themselves.

Leon's Engineering in Artarmon,

Does full engine building and head work themselves (well, when I last used them a bit over 4 years ago now).

yep i called up proengines, they seem to be very promising and really knows their stuff. but the price is still around the 6k mark just to freshen up the engine back to normal leaving it as stock internals. im guessing its the parts which bring the price up like this.

Has anyone heard of Insight Motorsport (i think that's what it's called). A workshop recommended them to me for a tune.

Any thoughts?

They put a GT35 or 40R turbo on this dude's(friend of friend) 2.7L hillux.

tuned with all supporting mods,i went and spoke to the bloke at Insight.He seems nice.

Their just off Holbeche. not much but hope it helps.

From memory they looked to have a few evo rally cars they were working on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...