Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I didn't know it was that easy to just "wire in". Any one here seen it done before? What do those displays go for? That's got me thinking now....

i have the wiring diagram for r33 somewhere if you want it.

if i remember right it display boost, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, intake temp (only on vspec 2 model) and some other stuff.

they arent hard to find but do cost upwards of $1000, you just need to find one that comes with the plug then u chop the plug off and connecting the wires to ur ecu wires

Hmm interesting. I've got the wiring diagrams for the R33, might look into this if i can pick one up for a decent price. The worst thing about it would be cutting up the dash, but i suppose there would be a way around this.

  • 2 weeks later...
The silver R33 on page 2 is my car, I'm happy to answer any questions if anybody wants some info.

Cheers,

Matt.

R33 GTS-t I helped a mate with;

IMG_0306.jpg

IMG_0310.jpg

Did LED Rear lights too;

IMG_0312.jpg

did you do a step by step on the retro fit ? - been wanting to do this for a while, but from memory was it 1200pounds to do it all ?

might aswell just buy s3 gtr headlights for that price

I completely agree, the conversion above was done by the owner and I assisted him by advising which parts to buy.

The only parts not readily available were the brackets (as I designed them) and the owner had them manufactured at his own cost.

The above conversion cost about £280 from memory, his intention is to also have a carbon duct through the headlight feeding the intake.

There's no shroud around the projector as I never got round to designing one and the owner didn't want one anyway.

I've never done a step-by-step guide for the headlights but have done one for the rear lights..

I completely agree, the conversion above was done by the owner and I assisted him by advising which parts to buy.

The only parts not readily available were the brackets (as I designed them) and the owner had them manufactured at his own cost.

The above conversion cost about £280 from memory, his intention is to also have a carbon duct through the headlight feeding the intake.

There's no shroud around the projector as I never got round to designing one and the owner didn't want one anyway.

I've never done a step-by-step guide for the headlights but have done one for the rear lights..

I reckon you should do a guide for the headlights bro... series 2 owners cant really get the other series headlights on if what Ive been reading is correct. Help us out plz? :(

I reckon you should do a guide for the headlights bro... series 2 owners cant really get the other series headlights on if what Ive been reading is correct. Help us out plz? :P

ok, I'll try and get some more photos off Steve and post them up with a few pointers for you guys.

Started off with the standard halogen light;

HPIM0374.jpg

The Bi-Xenon pojectos I used in this conversio were from and Audi A6 - later version.

The lenses were removed to allow installation, also the soleniod control circuit was removed and the loom extended so that it can be connected to the OEM loom;

tosort352.jpg

The 3D bracket using the original mounting points of the halogen lamp allowing adjustment as per OEM light.

No mounting the Bi-Xenon projector to the original halogen reflector;

tosort376.jpg

Connected the projector to the OEM loom and had a trial installation to ensure everything was aligned;

tosort383.jpg

tosort395.jpg

Started building the lights back up;

tosort399.jpg

And then Steve decided he wanted custom side lights as well!;

(You can see the solenoid control circuit has been removed, wired extended and installed bottom left between the main and high beam units)

tosort410.jpg

Results;

tosort456.jpg

knockhilledc003.jpg

knockhilledc006.jpg

knockhilledc007.jpg

knockhilledc008.jpg

Beam Alignment;

newpics1168.jpg

newpics1169.jpg

If you want more info, as in how to split the lights apart etc let me know.

Cheers,

Matt.

quick question, the projector units, do they have a levelling device? dunno how it applies in the UK but here to do these conversions and have them comply with the ADR' (specifically ADR 13) in cars built after 1st October 1991 we have to have:

1. either a vehicle or a headlamp self levelling device to orientate the beam, as well as

2. a headlamp cleaning device to remove debris from the lens that may otherwise cause light refraction beyond the low beam cut-off line

this is for HID of course but you see where I'm coming from. I've seen nozzles that just spray water onto the headlamp be used as a cleaning device so that shouldn't be too hard, it's the levelling that has got me thinking.

Edited by Blayz
  • 4 months later...

has anyone tried to mate up audi s4 95 to 2000? i dont know about the size of them im looking on ebay for projectors atm but it looks darn close?

some one correct me

id dare say completly wrong but hey wana spend big buy them rip them apart and get a set of r33 headlights

Edited by LUME

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
    • Do this, and we'll have a resource right here.
    • "Hybrid" is a meaningless term. I could not tell you what the vendor of that turbo means by "hybrid".
×
×
  • Create New...