Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Lads,

My front door speakers on my R33 are cactus, so I decided new ones are in order. I was fortunate enough to pick up a set of new Fosgate 6.5'' front splits real cheap ($80, rrp $250!!!).

The problem is that the bastards don't fit properly. I have pulled the driver's door apart and removed the corroded old factory Clarion, only to find that the speaker has a funky shape that fits into a funky-shaped moulded bracket (i.e. they are not round).

I probably could make up another set of brackets (probably out of MDF or something) to mount these in, as well as enlarging the holes in the trim to fit this - what do you '33 lads wreckon?

Is there an easier option?

Your comments are appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21407-fitting-65-fronts-into-r33/
Share on other sites

I read a post somewhere (somewhere... read sooooooooo many posts lately!) that someone had used the internal speaker bracket from a VS Commodore to fit 6½" speakers into their Skyline.

Otherwise, if you're opposed to the Commonwhore parts in Skyline blasphemy, buy some 6", not 6½" speakers...

I'm currently in the process of fitting some 6.5" speakers into the front and have come across the same problem in that the speakers won't fit into the black speaker holder....

I got my brother to trim around the edges of the speaker to remove some of the excess metal and now they fit perfectly....My solution might not be the best but it worked.....

Thanks Lads.

I wondered about cutting the edges of the original holder, but thought I might stuff it up. This might be worth a go, before I go making new MDF brackets.

Oh, and I don't have and worries about Holden parts in my Skyline... couldn't find a better pair!

Thanks for your help, boys (and girls)...

ive got 6.5 inch md quart in my car which when i installed i was lucky to already have some mdf backings which just need to be trimmed slightly bigger. if you have a jig saw 30 mins spare time and a pencil with some lead in it you should be able to make those speaker holders piss.

if you cant be bothered im sure your old high school has all the equip needed to help with this. just go there talk shit with an old school teacher from the manual arts block and i can bet he would make em for ya. if you need any help just pm me.

  • 2 weeks later...

i used a dremmel with a cutting bit. But I could have used a hack saw or a jig saw (if I were careful). The dremel was a bit loud though. You may need to cut the protective base off, as well as chunks out of the 4 edges. The plastic is stong enough to be stable after the mods.

yer, I trimmed one of them.. I believed I just my favourite tool for plastic hacking, tin snips ;) you just have to do a couple of edges and it will fit.. which was all nice and dandy.. then when i went to the other side i discovered I didn't even have a left speaker! (tweeter but no woofer) @@ So no bracket either, so I had to make one out of some spare MDF.

After that all fine.

Anyone know the specific dimensions of what the stock speakers are, and whats the approx max dimensions that you can fit in replacement? Save me pulling the door apart to find out what size replacement speakers i am allowed.

Cheers.

Oofoofoo,

From memory the stock speakers measure around 5 1/4 inches in diameter. But the problem is that they are not round, but a crappy shape that seems to widen a little where the four holes are.

I have read threads where lads wrocken that 6'' fit straight in, and I know from experience 6.5'' DEFINITELY DON'T. If you don't wanna make you own pods or even spacers, buy small - and don't be lazy, pull the bastard out and make sure that one you buy will fit in, b4 you spend the dollars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...