Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Vs Competitors

malinmc

By malinmc,
in R35 GTR

 Share

Recommended Posts

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

That was great reading

The only thing sucked was the prices he was quoting on all the cars.

We are getting D$%K%D in Australia.

I mean HSV...$80K Aus.....M3....$75K in America....lol...I know which I would buy.

Whats an M3 in Australia...$180K

thrtytwo Veteran

thrtytwo

Posted
Posted

lol havnt read that article yet but corvette ZR1 fanboys where thinking they would own the vspec but apparently it looks like it wont even beat base model GTR round the nurbburgerring. base GTR is 7 min 38 sec, ZR1 apparently looking over 7 min 40 sec. Vspec is hoping for 7 min 25 ish

lingeringsoul Grand Master

lingeringsoul

Posted
Posted
lol havnt read that article yet but corvette ZR1 fanboys where thinking they would own the vspec but apparently it looks like it wont even beat base model GTR round the nurbburgerring. base GTR is 7 min 38 sec, ZR1 apparently looking over 7 min 40 sec. Vspec is hoping for 7 min 25 ish

oh the embarrasment ha ha ha

ZR1 being the first car to come out of america that CAN go around corners, I'd hardly expect it to do well around the ring of hel. Having said that, 7:40 for a first timer is quite amazing.

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted (edited)

7:40 for a 2WD road car with mechanical suspension, that isn't some featherweight kit car Lotus 7 copy, is still really impressive.

Most of the 2WD cars in that bracket are supercars like the Carrera GT, Zonda, etc, that would have far more R&D and exotic materials poured into them than the Corvette.

EDIT: Just read that the ZR1's 7:40 time was in the damp, which would affect a 2WD car noticably more than a 4WD one. That time is looking more and more impressive.

Edited by scathing
lingeringsoul Grand Master

lingeringsoul

Posted
Posted
7:40 for a 2WD road car with mechanical suspension, that isn't some featherweight kit car Lotus 7 copy, is still really impressive.

Most of the 2WD cars in that bracket are supercars like the Carrera GT, Zonda, etc, that would have far more R&D and exotic materials poured into them than the Corvette.

EDIT: Just read that the ZR1's 7:40 time was in the damp, which would affect a 2WD car noticably more than a 4WD one. That time is looking more and more impressive.

yeah...top effort to them. This is actually a better comparison since both the GTR and the ZR1 did their laps in damp condition. Now they need a dry track time for both cars and let the fanboy/interforum fights begin lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...