Jump to content
SAU Community

Headlight Restoration

Jmaac

By Jmaac,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, I noticed Supercheap now stock a "Headlight Lens Restoration Kit" for $20, has anyone given this a try?

Says

"Restores exterior plastic lighting lenses like new!,

Improves light output and appearance, and

Eliminates clouded, pitted, & yellow-toned lens surfaces"

Could be handy...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214189-headlight-restoration/
Share on other sites
BLK33T Community Regular

BLK33T

Posted
Posted

there is a big thread on this somewhere ...

the ultimate thing you can do to restore your HL's is to pull them out and put them in the oven to soften to glue and split them apart ... rub them back inside and out with the finest grade wet and dry you can find ... polish them up ... and have them clear coated to stop them from going crappy again for ages ...

will be doing this soon because I had my car buffed and the dick head put marks across one of them ...

quarkgun Proficient

quarkgun

Posted
Posted

I read about the oven method in the soarer forums, not sure i'd want to cook em :blink:

I bought some McGuires plastix, meant to be for motorcycle windshields, but i'm pretty sure it'd work just the same. Haven't used it yet - i'm going to get my car cut'n'polished, and the guy said he'd do up the headlight also :)

Greekos Proficient

Greekos

Posted
Posted

"Headlight Lens Restoration Kit" from auto one works. we tried it on my sisters supra, the kit contains several pieces of wet and dry and a buffing solution. it works by removing a thin layer of plastic and then buffing it out. we noticed that longer time spent the better the result.

Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I wasnt sure if the cutting compound actually deteriorates the plastic

Ive removed glass lenses in the oven but not plastic, I wouldnt be game enough - ive melted enough LED lights trying the same thing

Cool i'll give it a shot

W0rp3D Grand Master

W0rp3D

Posted
Posted
I read about the oven method in the soarer forums, not sure i'd want to cook em :D

I bought some McGuires plastix, meant to be for motorcycle windshields, but i'm pretty sure it'd work just the same. Haven't used it yet - i'm going to get my car cut'n'polished, and the guy said he'd do up the headlight also :)

"Headlight Lens Restoration Kit" from auto one works. we tried it on my sisters supra, the kit contains several pieces of wet and dry and a buffing solution. it works by removing a thin layer of plastic and then buffing it out. we noticed that longer time spent the better the result.

the question for both of these is how long does it work for, the current headlights i have it lasts a week or two with a cut n polish, looking for something more permanent.

  • 9 months later...
R34GT-T Enthusiast

R34GT-T

Posted
Posted
Yeah I wasnt sure if the cutting compound actually deteriorates the plastic

yes it does in a big way. no factory light needs polishing every 2 months. cutting and polishing exposes the polycarbonate lense to further and more rapid sun exposure! click my sig

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...