Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at doing a single turbo conversion.. what i want to know is what is the biggest i can go is with standard internals..

on around 10 to 14 psi..

I have power FC, Split fire coil packs,exhaust, upgraded fuel pump and presaure reg,

If someone could tell me what size i could go to and what other suporting mods i would require that would be great. aprat from the obvious manifold wastegate etc.

Thanks guys.

:-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214389-single-turbo-conversion-question/
Share on other sites

i just finished my single turbo conversion on my R32

the only internal work i have atm is HKS step 1 cam shafts 264 intake, 264 exhaust and HKS adjustable cam gears

i first went out and bought a T04z but sold it for a Gt3540 with .78 divided exhaust housing

i bought the small exhaust housing because i dont wanna rev the engine hard with standard bottom end and standard oil system

all im waiting on now is a clutch and ill be ready for a tune

my list of supporting mods

TiAL 44mm gate

custom twinscroll steam pipe manifold

hks cams

hks cam gears

sard 800cc injectors

sard fuel reg

apexi power fc D jetro

blitz boost controler

full exhaust

115mm intercooler

fuel pump

its realli only a basic build just bought every thing which i needed to support the turbo setup

Thanks mate your a legend.. will help heaps when i start ordering stuff..

Ill rebuild the engine later on down the track. he he.. maybe after it blows. Jokes. :-)

yeah im in the same boat as u

i dont wanna rebuild my motor unless i have to

so im gonna enjoy it for as long as i can and when she lets go and doesnt wanna play any more ill go threw the rebuild

I have a single turbo gtr, and have tuned quite a few. IMO i think they are overrated, for less $$$, you can keep twins, get better response, and make far more power than the standard engine can handle. Dirtgarage is making close to 500awkw, with lowmount turbos. They stock rb26 internals are really only good for a long term 320rwkw, any more and it will go, just give it time.

It took me a long while to realize, theres a perception that BST or MST make more power / better response then low mount twins.

People must just like the idea, of replacing two with one... or like the look of a stonking great high mount :P

Diff ways to skin a cat, each to their own i guess.

i have a single on mine and if u plan on workin on the engine at all i would never ever ever put a set of twins on a rb26, they are a pain and a single turbo frees up sooo much room in the bay and simplifies things. My mate runs a gt3040r on a 3L 7m and makes 440hp at wheels on 19psi, and it is absolutely great for response, if i ever downgrade i would choose one of those for track work.

external wastagates are also nice as an added bonus :P

Yeh but you can get 440hp atw's from a lowmount turbo upgrade with better response :D

yer but if u plan on ever workin on it i bet ya turbo removal takes longer than 30 min :) or getting those dump pipes off are great fun on stock low mounts. I know alot of u guys dont touch your cars and leave it to mechanics but if u do then u will understand if u seen a single turbo setup compared to twins.

why would twin low mounts have better response? alot of these supposed good response lowmounts i see arnt making decent boost till over 4000rpm anyway which isnt so crash hot im sure a gt3040 would be as good and if not better considering it makes full boost under 3000rpm on my mates 3L.

I think alot of you guys think single turbo = t88 or gt42 or t04z even and there is such thing as small single turbos that still make 500hp at wheels and come on boost early in the rpm.

twins are good from a legal looking engine bay point of view, but i personally will never use twins again unless i want redicilous power and go twin high mount 3037s or something.

this is just my opinion and everyone has there own so make what you will of it :)

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...