Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at doing a single turbo conversion.. what i want to know is what is the biggest i can go is with standard internals..

on around 10 to 14 psi..

I have power FC, Split fire coil packs,exhaust, upgraded fuel pump and presaure reg,

If someone could tell me what size i could go to and what other suporting mods i would require that would be great. aprat from the obvious manifold wastegate etc.

Thanks guys.

:-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214389-single-turbo-conversion-question/
Share on other sites

i just finished my single turbo conversion on my R32

the only internal work i have atm is HKS step 1 cam shafts 264 intake, 264 exhaust and HKS adjustable cam gears

i first went out and bought a T04z but sold it for a Gt3540 with .78 divided exhaust housing

i bought the small exhaust housing because i dont wanna rev the engine hard with standard bottom end and standard oil system

all im waiting on now is a clutch and ill be ready for a tune

my list of supporting mods

TiAL 44mm gate

custom twinscroll steam pipe manifold

hks cams

hks cam gears

sard 800cc injectors

sard fuel reg

apexi power fc D jetro

blitz boost controler

full exhaust

115mm intercooler

fuel pump

its realli only a basic build just bought every thing which i needed to support the turbo setup

Thanks mate your a legend.. will help heaps when i start ordering stuff..

Ill rebuild the engine later on down the track. he he.. maybe after it blows. Jokes. :-)

yeah im in the same boat as u

i dont wanna rebuild my motor unless i have to

so im gonna enjoy it for as long as i can and when she lets go and doesnt wanna play any more ill go threw the rebuild

I have a single turbo gtr, and have tuned quite a few. IMO i think they are overrated, for less $$$, you can keep twins, get better response, and make far more power than the standard engine can handle. Dirtgarage is making close to 500awkw, with lowmount turbos. They stock rb26 internals are really only good for a long term 320rwkw, any more and it will go, just give it time.

It took me a long while to realize, theres a perception that BST or MST make more power / better response then low mount twins.

People must just like the idea, of replacing two with one... or like the look of a stonking great high mount :P

Diff ways to skin a cat, each to their own i guess.

i have a single on mine and if u plan on workin on the engine at all i would never ever ever put a set of twins on a rb26, they are a pain and a single turbo frees up sooo much room in the bay and simplifies things. My mate runs a gt3040r on a 3L 7m and makes 440hp at wheels on 19psi, and it is absolutely great for response, if i ever downgrade i would choose one of those for track work.

external wastagates are also nice as an added bonus :P

Yeh but you can get 440hp atw's from a lowmount turbo upgrade with better response :D

yer but if u plan on ever workin on it i bet ya turbo removal takes longer than 30 min :) or getting those dump pipes off are great fun on stock low mounts. I know alot of u guys dont touch your cars and leave it to mechanics but if u do then u will understand if u seen a single turbo setup compared to twins.

why would twin low mounts have better response? alot of these supposed good response lowmounts i see arnt making decent boost till over 4000rpm anyway which isnt so crash hot im sure a gt3040 would be as good and if not better considering it makes full boost under 3000rpm on my mates 3L.

I think alot of you guys think single turbo = t88 or gt42 or t04z even and there is such thing as small single turbos that still make 500hp at wheels and come on boost early in the rpm.

twins are good from a legal looking engine bay point of view, but i personally will never use twins again unless i want redicilous power and go twin high mount 3037s or something.

this is just my opinion and everyone has there own so make what you will of it :)

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
×
×
  • Create New...