Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at doing a single turbo conversion.. what i want to know is what is the biggest i can go is with standard internals..

on around 10 to 14 psi..

I have power FC, Split fire coil packs,exhaust, upgraded fuel pump and presaure reg,

If someone could tell me what size i could go to and what other suporting mods i would require that would be great. aprat from the obvious manifold wastegate etc.

Thanks guys.

:-)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214389-single-turbo-conversion-question/
Share on other sites

i just finished my single turbo conversion on my R32

the only internal work i have atm is HKS step 1 cam shafts 264 intake, 264 exhaust and HKS adjustable cam gears

i first went out and bought a T04z but sold it for a Gt3540 with .78 divided exhaust housing

i bought the small exhaust housing because i dont wanna rev the engine hard with standard bottom end and standard oil system

all im waiting on now is a clutch and ill be ready for a tune

my list of supporting mods

TiAL 44mm gate

custom twinscroll steam pipe manifold

hks cams

hks cam gears

sard 800cc injectors

sard fuel reg

apexi power fc D jetro

blitz boost controler

full exhaust

115mm intercooler

fuel pump

its realli only a basic build just bought every thing which i needed to support the turbo setup

Thanks mate your a legend.. will help heaps when i start ordering stuff..

Ill rebuild the engine later on down the track. he he.. maybe after it blows. Jokes. :-)

yeah im in the same boat as u

i dont wanna rebuild my motor unless i have to

so im gonna enjoy it for as long as i can and when she lets go and doesnt wanna play any more ill go threw the rebuild

I have a single turbo gtr, and have tuned quite a few. IMO i think they are overrated, for less $$$, you can keep twins, get better response, and make far more power than the standard engine can handle. Dirtgarage is making close to 500awkw, with lowmount turbos. They stock rb26 internals are really only good for a long term 320rwkw, any more and it will go, just give it time.

It took me a long while to realize, theres a perception that BST or MST make more power / better response then low mount twins.

People must just like the idea, of replacing two with one... or like the look of a stonking great high mount :P

Diff ways to skin a cat, each to their own i guess.

i have a single on mine and if u plan on workin on the engine at all i would never ever ever put a set of twins on a rb26, they are a pain and a single turbo frees up sooo much room in the bay and simplifies things. My mate runs a gt3040r on a 3L 7m and makes 440hp at wheels on 19psi, and it is absolutely great for response, if i ever downgrade i would choose one of those for track work.

external wastagates are also nice as an added bonus :P

Yeh but you can get 440hp atw's from a lowmount turbo upgrade with better response :D

yer but if u plan on ever workin on it i bet ya turbo removal takes longer than 30 min :) or getting those dump pipes off are great fun on stock low mounts. I know alot of u guys dont touch your cars and leave it to mechanics but if u do then u will understand if u seen a single turbo setup compared to twins.

why would twin low mounts have better response? alot of these supposed good response lowmounts i see arnt making decent boost till over 4000rpm anyway which isnt so crash hot im sure a gt3040 would be as good and if not better considering it makes full boost under 3000rpm on my mates 3L.

I think alot of you guys think single turbo = t88 or gt42 or t04z even and there is such thing as small single turbos that still make 500hp at wheels and come on boost early in the rpm.

twins are good from a legal looking engine bay point of view, but i personally will never use twins again unless i want redicilous power and go twin high mount 3037s or something.

this is just my opinion and everyone has there own so make what you will of it :)

Edited by unique1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
    • I don't think he's got it on a gauge and on the ECU. I think he's got it on the gauge and on the HPTuners DAq thingo. Remember, we're talking about oil temp here, not something that the ECU is actually interested in for its own sake.
×
×
  • Create New...