Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im getting a weird ticking noise that's proportional to the engine revs from the turbo side of the engine bay at low revs (from 1.5k to about 3k... not sure if it goes away at 3k or if its just too noisy, ie. pod suction/turbo spooling for me to hear it) and im getting worried i really dunno wtf is going on, im going to ice performance tomorrow to get it checked but was wondering if its a known thing or something so i KNOW to check something before i drive for 50mins over there, hopefully someone knows what im talking about

my car + mods are:

r33 gtst (95)

full zorst, pod & FMIC

profec b spec 2 EBC

powerfc w/hand controller

cars running at about 10.5-11 psi (0.7-0.75bar)

im scared something is really wrong last thing i want is a dead engine/turbo... oh and the car is still making perfect boost (is pinging a little bit but i think timing just needs a bit of retardation to fix that up)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21454-turbo-ticking-noise/
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

depends what the guys at ICE say thier is also a joint near chadstone called ATP they specialize in just turbos maybe they can give you some other feedback if ICE cant help ya which i doubt. I gotta checkout my car as well gonna head down to ICE probably wed at the latest finish work early.

i just let it wamr up to normal temp and then turned it off, removed dipstick, wiped it clean replaced it and waited 10seconds then took it out and it was sitting just underneath the L point on the dipstick, im assuming thats the way to check the oil and if that's the case then im totally outta oil, just put 500ML of new oil i had spare in running that through,, then will turn off and se if it goes up a bit, if thats the case that there wasnt oil then that explains the ticking... can i have done much damage ? and how the **** would have the car eaten up that oil ? what are the causes of a car eating oil ? coz it definnitely did not drip outt somewhere coz there was no oil marks whereever i parked!

:D

you only check your transmission oil straight after a good run, when it is hot.

Engine all should be checked when stone cold.

Sorry can't really help ya with ticking noise :D

But can the ticking be the boost selanoid (sp?) switching open/shut to controll thr boost?

Are you sure it is your turbo and not just your injectors or lifters? As after a hard dyno tune, a lifter may get a little noisy. Mine did, and went away after a long cruise.

Check your intercooler pipes for excessive oil residue. Really hope you don't find any, as it will indicate a worn eng./turbo (especially at a lowish boost level). May need to get an oil/air separator if that's the case.

its deifnitely not the boost controller as i turned it off :D been running stock boost for safety since i heard it

my oil sems very low.. will check tomorrow morning

god i hope there's nothing majorly wrong :D

will check intercooler piping however if its just low oil ill fill it up tomorrow and cruise to ice and let the pro's handle it

and redline.. i put in 4.5Ltrs approx

Well with nearly zero oil in there i think is probably the noise..

He can probably literally here the valves opening and closing or cams turning around because there is not enough lubrication in there.. not good whatever it is!

Hopefully the engine is all a-okay, but if its burned a whole 4L or so of oil in only a couple of thousand km's something not too good is going on.

You definately do hear ticking like that with low oil.

Did someone steal your expensive oil after watching you change it and get underneath with a spaner and collect your oil? - haha

Do that check oil level in the morning when cold.

Check your muffler - is it wet with oil slick?

you'd better fill your oil up again before driving it further!

check your oil pressure too - post that.

If its hot the oil would drain to sump sufficiently fast to get a reading accurate enough after half an hour. However if the oil filter is blocked you might have to take the reading while cold.

Blow by is a cause of oil consumption but usually its worse at higher boost. Blow by gets worse as the piston rings get worn.

hmm ok well i spoke to ice and told him the level of ym oil he saiod thats ok there's enough oil for it not do any worryful damage but its still a problem that needs adressing, ive got about half a gauge reading on oil nowb y topping up with leftover oil i had form last change (clean new stuff) and what ill do is fill it full before i hike to ice, gunna try it tonight to see if the clicking is gone, but nevertheless i wanna kno where my $60 per bottle mobil 1 has gone lol

maybe a catch can could help with this problem

so gortdon its chewed only a couple litres ice said if its at the level i quoted them

Sounds like you done a turbo seal dude, fairly common i'm afraid, often goes un noticed tho. I was going to say if you have a bigger turbo on it that'd be why cos of the design of some bigger turbos they sound like they are ticking but is acutally the exhaust sound resonating through the bigger blades, but only on some turbos. But def check you seal, could also be the reason why you are losing oil if it has damaged the bearing case and thrust bearing you could be using oil, check the inside of your cooler piping to see if its oily cos then you'll know you got oil in your turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 296mm rotors are the R33 turbo brakes. The 310mm rotors are the R34 turbo brakes. The calipers are nearly the same, but not. They're the same caliper but the R34 caliper has longer legs so that it sits out far enough to go over the rotor. The pads are the same for both. When you say, "I bough tsome EBC"....did you just mean pads? Or rotors? 310mm rotors fit under 17" wheels. There may be some wheels without enough clearance though. I can't fit my fingers between the barrel of my wheel and the "corners" of my R34 calipers, but there is plenty of room behind the spokes. This is on Enkei RPF1. You can fit 324mm rotors inside a 17" wheel, but I'd be willing to bet that it would be close to impossible with the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper (using an adapter, of course), because the Sumitomo caliper is fatter than the Brembo caliper that is supposed to go on the 324mm rotors.
    • Hi. Can someone tell me what brakes(and mainly WHERE) can i buy brakes on R34 GTT? I bought some EBC which SHOULD go on my car(i have GT but it has GTT brakes) but it does not fit, Brakes are "too" small(296mm) Are 310mm be good or? I have 17 inch wheel so no "big boys" but for me driving i just need one that fits and i can get here in EU/Czech.
    • Since winter isn't that harsh anymore in Poland, i will definetely drive it 365 days a year 😉. But if the snow hits i will try it for sure and let U know. Only swap i am planning to do is of course R34 GTR front 😍.
    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
×
×
  • Create New...