Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys since ivew had the car the 'clearcoat' on my wheel's alloy part has been funny, i wanna get the clear stripped off and the alloy polished nice n shiny again, every polisher/wheel restoral place ive been to says its too hard to get into the spots with their machines, anyone know how i can hand polish the shit off/bring it up ? or know anyone who can do it for me, everywhere wants me to take ym two piece welded wheels that are worth a fair bit of money apart to do it which im NOT prepared to do... thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21465-need-my-damn-wheels-polished/
Share on other sites

For something like that they should be able to sandblast it?? Maybe that is a bit extreme, might damage the alloy.

Anyway, there are methods by which they high pressure hose it with "whatever", that should get in all the gaps and strip it right back. Don't know much about it, but know it can be done.

dude u cant sandblast alloy it will destroy it im a metal polisher it is pretty hard to pollish them without the right machine but can b done r they the rims in your pic? if u want the clear off get paint stripper but make sure u dont leave it to long or it will eat the alloy

yeh it is bloking it u will be there all day with that stuff just use a bit of paint stripper make sure u dont get it on what u dont want polished its nasty stuff and dont leave it on long as it will eat the alloy afta a while, i have neva polished them with autosol but if u can get a buff with some normal car polish and give them a buff if that dont work give us a yell if u not to far away i might b able to do it for u as long as u have more rims as i dont know how long it will take.

how can i clear them when they are on the car ? or how do i get them fully polished ? or ami pretty much ****ed ? coz if its gunna be too hard i guess its time for new mags for me and ill sell these, only thing is i love these m,ags so much they suit the car big time :D

if u can get a set of standard rims do so and take your rims of the tyres its the only way u will polish them properly then u juct clear them like u would a car. i dont know of anyone who can do it as u need a special machine, i can polish just about anything by hand as long as they dont have heaps of spokes it not to hard but your first thing u need to do is get the rims of the tyres. where bouts in melb r u?

so this is what i gotta do (just checking)

-remove wheels from car (is taking the tyre off essential, like will polish or paint stripper damage them ?)

-strip off clea coat with paint stripper (being careful not to leave on too long or get on parts that i dont want stripped (and clean off with water)

-polish and buff with a metal cleaner/polisher like autosol ? (or can u recommend something better)

-if this does work and they come up good how often do i clean them and do i just use something like mag acid cleaner or something ? or do i need to polish/buff often ? if i dont polish/buff often can the metal get eaten away or rust ?

yeh do all that and yeh to get it done properly take the tyres off, u will need a proper buff to get in everywhere and yeh just use polish that will cut and polish it well, if u dont want to be polishing them all the time get them cleared afta u happy with the polish job. post me to c how u goin with them ok.

yer mate but how are they cleared ? if places wont polish them then wopuldnt clearing them be just as hard ? if i gotta remove the tyres then what ill have to do is take 2 off (borrow g/fs car) jot down to tyrepower get tyres removed.. do the work get them cleared back to tyrepower to re-fit tyres.. then repeat for two more tyres... *sigh* lol

hmm just had some paint thinners lieing around, would that work like stripper or is stripper better ?

the thinners did nothing but clean the dirt off the rims... so io got some ruffish sand paper and tried a small part, it got rid of the 'marks' easily as, polished it with autosol and it seems to look good considering it was ruff sandpaper... if i got some real smooth paper could i just sandpaper the whole rims and autosol polish them up ? or would it come up looking shitty ?

i think sanding is the only way unless paint stripper and fix it up as i put thinners on and didnt seem to do anything, but then cleaned that off and polished with autosol/buffed with a rag but it didnt dso anything to the marks ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...