Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a re-occuring problem with my R33. When under full throttle, when it reaches 4500rpm the revs almost come to a halt and the engine feels like it's really struggling.

So far, it has been currently un-diagnosed as to what it is.

I have changed the AFM, coil packs, CAS, fuel pump and had a HKS twin power unit installed incase of ignition breakdown, all to no avail.

the ECU reads 55 in diagnostic which is no fault.

I'm starting to go out of my mind, anyone else encountered the same or similar problem??

any help would be greatly appreciated! :D

whats your air filter looking like? tried replacing it?

a mate of mine had a really weird problem where the car was basically making no power.

turned out the air filter was being sucked onto the intake pipe

maybe thats it?

also I know on the Stageas ( thats what I drive ) the intake pipe would " suck shut " basically implode on it self - thus causing problems.

maybe it could be that ?

I know its a bit of extra expense.. but why not stick it on a dyno and get em to do a few runs

they connect all sorts of sensors in the dyno that might be able to tell you something

you dont reckon its boost cut do you?

Edited by ssshonky

had a look at my air filter, looks fine, grubby, but not overly. I'll give it a clean whilst i'm at it and see how that goes.

Have already fixed the inlet pipe from sucking closed by replacing ribbed section with solid piping.

Boost is 6.5psi low and usually 8psi high, so shouldn't be boostcut, but stranger things have happened...

Was thinking maybe an ECU input is kaput, as It'll run fine at some points, sometimes for hours on end but turn it off and it runs like a pig up top again.

So far spark plugs are about 10,000km old. re-gapped them recently to .7 and looked fine.

Maybe Dyno is going to be the only way to go.. bugger!

Cam timing?, CAT Blown apart inside, and blocking zorst.

OR even one of the silencers disintegrated internally, and blocking the ZORST..!!

Edited by Richieb

Cleaned the air filter to no avail.

Fuel filter was replaced 5,000km ago, Will have a search for "rich and retard"

Was prompted by a mechanic to check my cat and now it's currently non existent.

Have a catback exhaust on it, only 20,000km old and with no cat is just straight through unless there is a second cat i don't know about..?

Could possibly be the cam timing..

dyno is still looking like the best bet :D

before you get the car dyno'd, go to motor traders and buy 6x BCPR6ES-11 or BCPR7ES-11 NGK sparkys (which should cost you no more than $40), gap them to 0.7-0.8, install. Take your car for a drive. If it still has the problem, then book in for a dyno tune.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The HG high flow is excellent, and costs about the $$ you're talking about. But it, and probably every other highflow, uses a diffeent core than the original turo, and the original Hitatchi core is quite long. So, I think it is inevitable that there is likely no such thing as a highflow that just "bolts on" with no other effort required. And the same is likely true for HG's outright replacement "bolt on" turbos (the ATR things). And the same is likely true for anything similar from elsewhere. I have no idea if the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese complete turbos from eBay/Temu/etc are as bolt on as they claim. I mean, they claim the bolt onto the NAs as well as the turbos, and we know that can't be "bolt on". But it wouldn't matter because I'm not buying a $169 4 psi turbo for anything other than a paddock basher.
    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...