Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Unfortunately my bulb is not a blue bulb. Its simply a normal bulb with the standard Nissan blue cover over it so that the light comes out more whiter than yellow. Its the stock standard bulb.

I think the LED one somehow is a straight fit plug into the wire connector. Must be aftermarket.

Damn its actually a wedge bulb type fitment for you?

The R34 GTT one is some weird looking bulb+base in one. I have attached a pic.

You should have no problems with changing it for led, looks the same like mine, its hard to pull them off

THIS IS A NORMAL BULB LIKE FOR DASH, I THINK ITS T10 or T5

Edited by naomy
Damn its actually a wedge bulb type fitment for you?

The R34 GTT one is some weird looking bulb+base in one. I have attached a pic.

have u ever fitted LEDs to your car before? because they are all like that.

you jsut have to pull the thing off.....and stick a LED in there.

but dont do it until someone confirms its actually a T10

have u ever fitted LEDs to your car before? because they are all like that.

you jsut have to pull the thing off.....and stick a LED in there.

but dont do it until someone confirms its actually a T10

Haha dude Ive fitted it MANY MANY times, aircon LCD, aircon buttons, dash, triple meter, cigarette lighter, everything except for the ignition.

You cant pull that bulb off the white base, trust me I tried, its not a wedge type design.

And the glass bulb is pretty small, T5 sized almost

Im pretty sure they are T5 or T10 wedges, at least mine arent.

and these are a Neo wedge bulbs for a/c

R34 has T5

i dont know how is it with r33 32

P.S. google it.

i bought yesterday for myself 12 so 9 can sell if anybody is interested......

post pics after install

post-49632-1208239662_thumb.jpg

Edited by naomy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...