Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

lcd leds or just a rear leds (button leds) ??

No I dont have but im pretty sure its somewhere on sau unless u talking bout lcd led

try this:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...l&hl=666dan

Edited by naomy
Damn its actually a wedge bulb type fitment for you?

The R34 GTT one is some weird looking bulb+base in one. I have attached a pic.

Haha dude Ive fitted it MANY MANY times, aircon LCD, aircon buttons, dash, triple meter, cigarette lighter, everything except for the ignition.

You cant pull that bulb off the white base, trust me I tried, its not a wedge type design.

And the glass bulb is pretty small, T5 sized almost

Im pretty sure they are T5 or T10 wedges, at least mine arent.

You're right nuffsaid.. it is a bulb in base design. So no wedge.

I had a look at mine, tried to pull it off to no avail. So what i did was smash the globe (harsh I know), and then wired the feet of the led directly onto the base. A bit of stuffing around I know. But it looks trick.

wish i took photos mate.. but i'll try to describe it as well as i can.

1. Following instructions in the first post, remove the steering column cover.

2. Twist to remove the bulb holder.

3. Using a pair of pliers remove/break the bulb.

4. Remove the bulb filament with the pliers, you should then see two holes.

5. Take your blue led bulb, and straighten the legs (two wires + & -) out on it.

6. Chop off the legs to make them shorter.

7. Reinsert. The Dan666 T5s supplied ones just fit the bulb holder, so once squeezed in they should be a really tight fit and unlikely to come out.

8. Test and then reassemble column cover.

Having said the above, I wouldn't really recommend doing it this way and a new wedge bulb holder type holder is definately the more reliable way to go.. so do the above at your own risk. Although it's just a led light, you do really end up destroying the bulb/holder in one thing by performing this mod.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...