Jump to content
SAU Community

Walkthrough For Cleaning Mafs R32 Gtr

TrevoR32

By TrevoR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TrevoR32 Rookie

TrevoR32

Posted
Posted

hey guys, first time poster and fairly new to the skylines. My car has been giving a sort of jerking motion on the highway under crusing load. ie: just above and around 0. it shifts forwards and backwards which is really annoying and quite frankly makes me not want to drive it on the highway. i was told that cleaning the mafs may allow for better readings on highway speeds 110-120 km/h. if anyone has a good walkthrough or any other ideas to my aforementioned problem it would be much appreciated. car is basically stock save for an rs-r catback. i was also told that turbo shuffle may be the issue as well. please help thank you.

Trevor

TrevoR32 Rookie

TrevoR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Evening Mr 1 post.

Every single Skyline has one of these mysterious "AFM's" hence you can bet cleaning them, has been covered to death.

right, i was really more concerned with having to take out the stock airbox to get at them is all? plus my previous problem haha

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

Cleaning the AFM is pretty straight forward, though a guide on how to remove your airbox, you might not find :P

Cruising load ie: just above and around 0

Whats "o" ?

Your stock car wont be shuffling. Check your resting TPS voltage and clean the AFM's first up.

TrevoR32 Rookie

TrevoR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Cleaning the AFM is pretty straight forward, though a guide on how to remove your airbox, you might not find :P

Whats "o" ?

Your stock car wont be shuffling. Check your resting TPS voltage and clean the AFM's first up.

Thanks GeeTR, when i say 0 i mean on the stock boost gauge. just out of vacuum. i went to have a look in the engine bay previously and it seems the only way to get at the lower afm is certainly removing the entire box. i may get away with a long socket set to get the top. i was only concerned because i had seen some people saying, "only took me 10-15 min" haha.

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Boost - Gotcha. Keep in mind a GTR (any Skyline) ECU, has no idea of inlet pressure.

...i was only concerned because i had seen some people saying, "only took me 10-15 min" haha.

"Ppl" use pods and/are liars :P

EDITED: Added some extra words, as im a AU/Swede language f ucktard

Edited by GeeTR
TrevoR32 Rookie

TrevoR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

UPDATE: ended up cleaning the mafs..... but the lurching problem was still evident although possibly a bit better. I have also heard that re soldering the mafs corrects problems as well. at this point im not quite sure what it could be other than drivetrain?

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Doubt its the drive train.

Re soldering the MAF's would mean some joint has gone dry, or just popped off the PCB. ECU's dont like it when their main load deriver goes non existent. It'll go into limp mode and would spit errors on start ups (lol - trust me)

You should prolly check the ECU for start up errors anywho.

Don't mind me whoring your thread lol :P

Jerking on light load is very common, (im battling with an S14 atm) so do search.

Edited by GeeTR
arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted

re-soldering the mafs is easy. take them outta the car. the square panel on the top is held down with black silicone. cut that away and youll see the 4 joins. re-solder them with some fresh solder and reglue the cover back on with black silicone. i took my time when i did this to my car. ( i had a bit to drink:P) took me under 1 hr.

There is a diy on here somewhere. the search button is your friend.

Cheers, Ron

TrevoR32 Rookie

TrevoR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
re-soldering the mafs is easy. take them outta the car. the square panel on the top is held down with black silicone. cut that away and youll see the 4 joins. re-solder them with some fresh solder and reglue the cover back on with black silicone. i took my time when i did this to my car. ( i had a bit to drink:P) took me under 1 hr.

There is a diy on here somewhere. the search button is your friend.

Cheers, Ron

kk thanks guys, dont worry GeeTR any help is needed, and appreciated. The only reason is that im taking the car on a longer trip this week and i dont think i could deal with the lurching, its driving me nuts. thanks for the input guys.... there is a way to reset the ecu as well right? turn on and hold the brake for 30 sec? i'll search haha thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...