Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, its about my R34 headlights

i got this yellowish mark inside my headlight, well i dont quite know how to explain it but you guys probably know anyway the good old mark in old car headlight..

question is simple how to get rid off it?? :)

I want it to be nice clear and shiny, i asked a guy who sells HIDs but he said if he opened it up, polish it, and close it again, it wouldnt be perfect and when rain comes, some water vapour will get inside and shit and leaves water marks..

cheers

I have pulled a few r31 lights apart with the oven method and did an awesome job of resealing and restoring them however a word of warning before you put the glass or plastic back on,make sure both parts are at ambient temperature before you do or you'll get condensation inside the glass/plastic and it seems to come back even if you turn the lights on for a while to dry it out,there's some physics involved not sure what, to avoid condensation,I put mine back together warm thinking to avoid this problem and got it, so I can only think to do the opposite and wait till everything is cool.

Also you'll find with r31 or 32/33/34 lights that they get discolouration on the outside underneath part because dirt seems to get under the factory coating they used to form the reflective base colour to the glass or plastic, I fix this by getting a razor rego sticker remover and scaping it all off clean then use some hi/temp aluminium engine enamel in a spray can, if they used silver, or another colour to suit, must be hi-temp paint though and after masking it up painting the bottom part in light layers 3 or 4 coats to get perfect cover,and voila,like brand new.Hope this helps Cheers Grey Pearl.

  • 6 months later...

i now use

P10_PLASTX_2.jpg

every 6 months odd and they come up like factory :P

just rub on heaps of the shit with a rag, scrub it in real hard and wipe off/polish with another rag.

5 mins

i now use

every 6 months odd and they come up like factory :P

just rub on heaps of the shit with a rag, scrub it in real hard and wipe off/polish with another rag.

5 mins

I,ve also used the PlasticX Polish, Love it, and it actually does what it's suppose to do.

another +1 for PlastX, great stuff

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, this is probably where a wiring diagram and a multimeter come into play.
    • I can say to anyone thats doing this; having done a number of R clusters; just be careful if its an unknown cluster.  It takes a bit of force to pull up; but if it feels excessive then its probably stuck. I've had this and pulled the entire hair spring out; and I can tell you; its not easy getting the correct spring replacement with the correct inner diameter and winding. In my case someone had used some sort of adhesive to stick it to the spindle and it pulled the whole spindle out; which the force seperated the hairspring from the spindal and caused it to deform.  You may have to clean it (IPA); or in my case if i'd known i should have used some sort of solvent on it.  Also check out Cruizin Central on eBay. He does all sorts of dials; and you can email him with any custom designs you want. So if you want like certain logos etc...he'll send you a mock of what it will look like then you accept the order and he'll take care of the rest. Fantastic dials and he can do basically any design you want. 
    • Have you confirmed its the actual axles? Also the wheel bearings that mount on the hubs to hold the axles wear out. I replaced mine as they got play in them. It sorted my play issue. 
    • Ive converted a few clusters for the R33 with 320km/h dials. On the back there are some pads which can be bridged or unbridged (using solder or wick braid) to calibrate it. There is one bridge which is for MPH <> KPH; and there are combinations of bridges to offset it. There is probably a diagram  For example; this is my conversion for a 180km/h dial to a 320km/h dial (I put custom GT-R dials on it with the GTS25t layout) If you have J2 soldered (assuming the S clusters have a similar config to the R clusters); you may need to remove that solder
    • Back on topic 😉, these are some of the notable pages from the booklets that are supplied with each weekly parts update. I never knew the BNR32 test mule car had an S13 Silvia front end... *Edit: On closer inspection the test car still had the R32 body, but only the front end had Silvia panels etc.
×
×
  • Create New...