Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 GTS25 would be the way to go, should handle quite well.

there is a r32 with a na rb25 conversion for sale at the moment are there many of them?i currently have a Nissan pulsar n14 sr20 how will it go against that? also how much do the r32s weight and are they lsd? is there a page somewhere that has all the features

The r32 gts25 was a production car from the factory they weigh high 1300kg i think. cant help you with the lsd or how they go against n14. in my opinion r32 would be quicker.

http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/index.php...0&Itemid=97

that might help

I remeber reading somewhere that N15 SSS's will have the jump on NA R33's but the Skyline will catch up a little down the line..

Quick rundown.

Short answer: R32 - No. NA 2L is poo.. if you can find one with a 2.5L thats not too bad..

If your going to get an NA skyline.. get a 33 or 34..

Down sides..

Small brakes..

Open diffs..

4 stud wheel pattern

Slap a set of coilovers and strut bars and they handle awesomly..

My NA 2.5L R32 GTS4 can keep up with higher powered cars through the twisties without too much hassle.. but you really need to keep the engine revving to get the most out of it. It is possible to have a quick NA through the twisties with the right mods.

If you want a good good handling NA your looking at the wrong place..

NA cars are all about being light weight with awesome handling..

Have a look at:

MX5

AE86

RX7 SII

perhaps an s13

Just a thought..

I remeber reading somewhere that N15 SSS's will have the jump on NA R33's but the Skyline will catch up a little down the line..

Quick rundown.

Short answer: R32 - No. NA 2L is poo.. if you can find one with a 2.5L thats not too bad..

If your going to get an NA skyline.. get a 33 or 34..

Down sides..

Small brakes..

Open diffs..

4 stud wheel pattern

Slap a set of coilovers and strut bars and they handle awesomly..

My NA 2.5L R32 GTS4 can keep up with higher powered cars through the twisties without too much hassle.. but you really need to keep the engine revving to get the most out of it. It is possible to have a quick NA through the twisties with the right mods.

If you want a good good handling NA your looking at the wrong place..

NA cars are all about being light weight with awesome handling..

Have a look at:

MX5

AE86

RX7 SII

perhaps an s13

Just a thought..

could i also suggest a non turbo supra and non turbo 300zx, both these cars will make over 130kw at the wheels, and only weight about 1400kg's give or take

thanx for all the advice and info

id really like a r32 gts25 but im also looking at mr2 sprinta and 300zx im looking for a car that looks nice and goes good for na and drifts can any one giv me some advise on thoes cars or any other cars

R32 GTS25 is my pick, doesnt have VVT which does make a nice topend difference though. Ideally if you can pick up an R32 GTS25 that has already had the very easy to do 3l bottom end conversion, then you can achieve 150rwkw+ with the right mods.

R33 and R34 if you can get a good one for cheap then why not... But ultimately, I wouldnt spend too much on an N/A as a P plater cos you'll eventually get onto the turbo bandwagon later, save the dosh for a turbo car then :D

Z32s are a nice bus, not a fan of the big veee-six however, and no where near as easy to work on if you are inclined that way.

thanx for all the advice and info

id really like a r32 gts25 but im also looking at mr2 sprinta and 300zx im looking for a car that looks nice and goes good for na and drifts can any one giv me some advise on thoes cars or any other cars

If you want to hang your arse out.. dont go for MR2.. incredibly hard to drift.

Again.. if you want to drift, you want the lightst car possible, Sprinter. There are a couple of 4AGE converted ones already and they are a blast to drive!

I see where your comming from with an R32 as a drift car but the NA's have too many down points (in my opinion) to bother with.. no time. Im pretty sure that the NA's have a weaker box too.. and thats something you dont want in adrift car.

How about a KE70?.. It would need work.. but they are quite cheap..

MA70 (is that the right code?) Supra?

Toyota Cressida?

Ghetto Spec R31 boro drift car?

i had a look at a 300zx last nite,drove nice but yes big and heavy,sprinters are sik but there bit old,r32gts25 would be awsome if i could find one wat about r33? they any good i dont really like the look but i could settle for one,ye i read about mr2s being hard 2 drift because of the heavy rear end

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

If you really want to skid it and not just a passing fancy, jump on the Aus spec R31 bandwagon and don't look back. S13 front sus, locked diff and away you go.

If you want something thats actually nice but still cheap, I'd go NA 33 and if you are cashed, NA Supra.

If you want something NA and fast, get a V8 falcon or commy. Big cam, good free flowing exhaust, some head work and either a big carby or a good EFI system and it should be quick enough to give you a scare or 2.

  • 1 month later...

Hey Mate,

Don't know if you have bought your car yet, but i got an R32 GTS 2.0L, and i have to say it's great.

There are some small downsides though

Small engine capacity means you need to keep the revs up for any decent power.

As for drift yeah a LSD would be nice but hard to source, but great in the wet ;)

handeling: as i only have a standard one at the moment i can only go by a standard setup, which is a fair bit of fun but could be a bit stiffer.

Hope this has helped you a bit..

By the way expect to pay a fair bit nowdays as P platers are only alowed non turbo ones, so they are in high demand..

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...