Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

After driving hard at DECA the other day, the car started acting up just as i got to my street (after 2 hours driving home)

-Going up the revs it would hesitate (blow off valve would sound) then it would go back on boost and climb again. My thoughts were piping.

Then it was all fine until the next day.

-Stalled on me a few times.

-On idle revs would climb to about 2k then drop back to normal then climb again continuously. My thoughts were AFM sending faulty signal to ecu.\

-Also slightly sluggish when cruising

Sprayed AFM with carby cleaner but still problems > maybe on the way out. Have checked cooler piping also... maybe not checked well enough...

Are there any other components that would cause problems like these that i should pay some attention to before buying an AFM?

Thanks

Sam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215751-rb20-sluggishstalling-occasionally/
Share on other sites

is it blowing loads of smoke?

un plug the O2 sensor and see if that makes a difference.

also unplug your AFM and see if that makes a difference.

there is an ignition module on the top at back of the cam cover, the big square-ish flat thing with all the wires. that controls the coil packs this could be the issue. if your spark is breaking down then your bov will acctuate.

very VERY slim chance but i could be your throttle position switch too, had a VLT that was cutting out on full throttle coz the TPS was wired in backwards!!! some plonker had put an XF throttle body on there and forgotten to mod the TPS to suit!!!!

also check your spark plugs dude, it does sound spark related to me.

Edited by Pun4N1

thanks for your replies

ecu is remapped, fuel pump is quite a new bosche.

no smoke. o2 sensor unplugged doesn't seem to make a diff

afm unplugged - revs at 2k, which is similar to what it was doing the other day reving up to 2k then dropping - so i'm thinking dodgey connection.

opened up the wires that go to plug:

IMG_5953.jpg

there's an unused bare wire wrapped around 2 AFM wires, and then that's all covered in heat shrink. goes all the way down like that.

connection seems okay though

this sounds too basic, but are your vacuum lines all hooked up?

i got that when i forgot to hook up some vacuum lines.

cheers

i looked at the lines but couldn't find anything that had popped off... but there's so many so i will look again with engine running

this flowchart would be useful if i learn to use the multimeter properly:

and sorry ash just realised we have a general maintenance section where this should be

post-6966-1208784617_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

afm, check intercooler pipeing. it sounds like a leak they are a bastard to find but i would check all those avenues first.

if u said u were driving it hard only a few days prior and all of a sudden u have idle issues that is where my money would be on.

Edited by Hunting Lions

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 馃槩 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
  • Create New...