Jump to content
SAU Community

Microtech Computer

Rav

By Rav,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rav Proficient

Rav

Posted
Posted

Hey Guys and Girls,

Iam thinking of putting in a microtech computer in my GTR, Atm i have a Power FC,

Just wanted to hear what people have to say about the microtech pros and cons,

One pro is you dont need Afm's i like that idea Because iam pushing just over 300kw with standed afm's.

If it helps i run a Garrett 2560r Turbo's, PFC, profec B,

Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215802-microtech-computer/
Share on other sites
R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)

stay with the powerfc, much more user friendly

it takes a fair while to get things like cold start right on the microtech, and even then you cant have idle up when cold.

the powerfc has been tried and proven, theres plently of high hp GTRs out there running them

Just stick a set of z32 afms on yours and it will fix the afm maxing out

Edited by R34GTFOUR
bloodzkull Community Regular

bloodzkull

Posted
Posted

hmmm i am pretty sure a microtech has pretty large gaps between the mapping points. even more so when the revs get right up there.

power fc is probably the most user friendly ecu. but is really nothing more than a chipped nissan board. a microtech is more like a midway between haltech/wolf

my advice if you are happy with the power fc. then stay with it. however instead of a microtech look at a haltech or wolf v500. i can vouch for the wolf personally.

84ace Contributor

84ace

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey mate,

Microtech are pretty damn good, maybe not for your situation though. I have a lt10s on my rx7 and have put one in a turbo vitara. Dead simple to install and play with. takes about 3-4 hours to wire it up if you do it all properly and neat. takes maybe 2-3 cold starts before you get the AFR's right if the base map was way off (I live in darwin and they always are) R34GTFOUR has said that you cant have idle up on cold... why not?

Any way back to facts, Microtech has mapping points every psi positive of zero and for every psi, there is a mapping point per 500rpm. it can do idle up on cold/hot/warm/potatoe whatever really, can do idle up on air con/power steer. can do pulse width modulation for those of you out there that know what a BAC or idle up controller is. can do anti lag for drags or big launches, can do thermos/shift light/nos/water injection/wastegate. Has air temp/water temp correction. has programmable boost/rev cut. has some logging functions and can show max value for most linputs

It can do a lot really but if you dont want to get your hands dirty stay with the all mighty PFC.

Ring Maztech in melbourne (03) 9416 8411 and ask for Lino

last time i checked lt10s was $1010 shipped

and the lt12 with the rb plug in harness was around $1200-1300

This was a while ago so don't quote me on prices. Rav if you've got a set buy a microtech

Edited by 84ace
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

If your unhappy then you haven't had a decent tune.

Go to Racepace, you'll never look at a $900 ECU the same again for bang for buck.

The coldstart is there, idle is there etc etc.

All stuff that takes time and money to get right on a ECU that doesn't have that (i don't believe the microtech has anything of the stock ECU settings that the PFC retains for ease of use).

Microtech limits you to tuners here in Vic substantially, and in some cases tuners that have nowhere near as much experience with RB's ...

That in itself would keep me to a better used ECU for the RB personally.

The cost of tuning will be higher than a PFC, if it isn't then they aren't giving it the same level of attention.

Microtech's have their place, just not on RB's.

R334door(s2) Mentor

R334door(s2)

Posted
Posted

The MicroTech LT Series ECU

microtech_ltx8.jpg"Click Me - microtech ecu's info etc <----

The MicroTech

Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is a microprocessor based computer, which the user can program to meet the specific running demands of an engine. The latest LT series computers are the next step on from the older MT series computers. The LT series has been developed to incorporate Laptop tuning.

The advantage of the MicroTech ECU over similarly priced units is that the MicroTech is fitted with a factory programmed chip allowing you to start your car as soon as the installation is finished. Once the engine is started, adjustments are easily made through your MicroTech Hand Controller, allowing you to alter settings and maps to suit your engines needs.

Other advantages of the MicroTech ECUs is the ability to display real time engine information and log information on your engines performance. Tuning can be made easier by using your own laptop installed with MicroTechs laptop software, allowing you to get a bigger picture of what your engine is doing and when.

Even though the setup and installation is simple, the system does not lack the technology to make your street or race car perform. With 256 load points on the main map, you can make adjustments to:

  • Idle RPM.
  • Wide open throttle RPM. (varies the amount of fuel or ignition at wide open throttle at various loads)
  • RPM cruise. (varies the amount of fuel while maintaining a constant speed)
  • Accelerator pump (supplies additional fuel and timing as the throttle is opened to alloe crisp acceleration)
  • Water Temp. adjustments. (adds or subtracts fuel according to engine coolant temperature)
  • Air Temp. adjustments. (adjust fuel and ignition for ambient temperature changes)
  • Cranking fuel. (assist the engine with starting by supplying additional fuel)

Overall the MicroTech ECU allows complete control over your engine management system. If you are wondering whether the MicroTech ECU range is good enough for your car, all you need to do is to look at the number of successful teams using MicroTech. From 6 second drag cars in the USA to the many circuit teams around Australia.

................................................................................

............................................................................

Just some more info i found at there website just as good as a pfc if not better.

cheers

Allan

acsplit Veteran

acsplit

Posted
Posted

Microtech's are awesome....

I make heaps of cash removing them from gt-r's and other ECU frienly cars.

they do have their place in the market for cars which you can;t get a plug in solution but it certainly a bad choice for a gt-r

R34GTFOUR Mentor

R34GTFOUR

Posted
Posted (edited)
Microtech are pretty damn good, maybe not for your situation though. I have a lt10s on my rx7 and have put one in a turbo vitara. Dead simple to install and play with. takes about 3-4 hours to wire it up if you do it all properly and neat. takes maybe 2-3 cold starts before you get the AFR's right if the base map was way off (I live in darwin and they always are) R34GTFOUR has said that you cant have idle up on cold... why not?

because mircotech doesnt have an output for an idle stepper motor, so it doesnt idle up like most stock cars when cold. It took more than 2-3 cold start tunes to get mine right, and i had to wait 5 hours for the engine to be dead cold again before you could try again. Even then, when winter came and i started it at 5am in the morning when it was 1-2degrees outside it didnt really like it too much. Once it got to operating temp it was great, but it all comes down to the tuner and how much time you have to spend on it. My tuner spent one full day tuning my car and went through over a tank of juice, then plus another week to get the cold start acceptable (he did it first thing in the morning when it was dead cold).

I thought the mircotech (i ran a lt8s in my celica) was a great bit of gear for the price, but imo you'd be crazy to go down a path like that if you own a skyline when there are plug and play items like powerfc which work so well. You may only spend 900 on a mircotech, but if you dont know a tuner that tunes them well, the savings you make will be wasted on additional dyno time to get the tune right.

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

I can think of many many cons of using a microtech on a RB26.

ohhh but i can think of one pro.. and that would be...

"it works"

Works is the best you will get out of it for your application. I dunno about you but Id rather something that works properly then just "works"

  • 5 months later...
QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted (edited)
wots the difference between the microtech MT-8 sequential and microtech LT-8 sequential ??

MT-8 has to be tuned via a hand controller. the LT-8 can be tuned by a hand controller or a laptop. if you have a MT-8 you can send it back to Microtech and they can upgrade it for you so it can be tuned with a laptop.

Edited by QWK32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...