Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About the only thing that will make the car make boost in neutral like that is a skipped timing belt, retarding the cam and ignition timing.

Okay, got the mechanic to change the timing belt and this did not solve the problem. He said that it did not skip a tooth and all marks line up (found out that it has Toda branded adjustable intake and exhaust cam pulleys). He then disconnected the exhaust at the Cat converter and when revving it out of gear it did not make quite so much boost. We took it for a drive with it disconnected but the same problem was still there. The mechanic said that it feels if there is a blockage somewhere in the intake. While driving the car it was coming on to full boost at 3000rpm but is struggling to get there.

Things that have been checked so far;

turbo's spin freely,

cat converter is not blocked,

compression tested with all cylinders passing,

spark plugs are fine (the car does not missfire),

This problem is proving difficult to find, I am hoping someone out there might have some more suggestions on what could be causing all of this.

DSF

i would try a set of AFM and ecu if you can swap them with somone, so you know there good AFM problems usally limit car to 2000rpm or below. Also a backfire can damage the hot wire in the AFM.

Is it overfuling whith no load (in neautral), do have black smoke out the exhaust? what rpm can you get when free reving? are you still getting boost in neautral when the engine is cold?

cheers

DSF

i would try a set of AFM and ecu if you can swap them with somone, so you know there good AFM problems usally limit car to 2000rpm or below. Also a backfire can damage the hot wire in the AFM.

Is it overfuling whith no load (in neautral), do have black smoke out the exhaust? what rpm can you get when free reving? are you still getting boost in neautral when the engine is cold?

cheers

Yes it is overfuelling with no load, with plenty of black sooty smoke.

At this stage while in neutral I am not confident in revving past the 4500rpm as it is hitting mas boost before that (though I have taken it past 6000rpm once).

All symptoms are the same whether the engine is cold or warmed up.

I have two spare AFMs (working conditions uncertain) but changing them over has not improved the engine problem so far.

Cheers.

Well the mechanic reckons that it is a possible sticky/faulty BOV. No the problem is intermittent as we were able to drive it normally for a little while, and now when driving anywhere between 4000-5500rpm it will dump all boost. Only change was the mechanic blowing pressure from the intake of the intercooler up to the plenum chamber.

Would a possible faulty OV be the cause of all of this? I am hoping this is it and all will be fixed.

i will check all sensors sounds like its in lime mode like when u unplug a afm etc so be checking voltages from sensors

But I thought that the ECU will not let you rev past 2000rpm when in limp mode? At the moment the car is running fine except when you get anywhere between 4000-5500rpm, where it cuts all boost/timing/fuel/whatever I am not sure but once it is below 4000rpm it runs fine.

I have been searching other posts, I found one where the symptoms are similar and the possible fault is either BOV's or the boost solenoid.

Cheers :)

Hey I reckon your problem would be a blocked vac line.

I say this because I have the same car, same prob exaxtly

(blew hose than had more probs later) checked everything.

Found a dead vac line on the very bottom of the intake plenum,

closest to the firewall.

Dont know the best way to unblock this one as it was inside the plenum(not the line itself)

So I just gave a quick blow in the line with an air compressor, and its been fine since.

Hope this helps

Jason

i cant explain the overboosting but my car hesitated to go past 2500 rpm and stalled on idle, soldered up the afms and its fine now, try finding a working set of afms to test it, no point using dodgy afms to test if ur afms work or not

sory mate didint read the page 2 posts

But I thought that the ECU will not let you rev past 2000rpm when in limp mode? At the moment the car is running fine except when you get anywhere between 4000-5500rpm, where it cuts all boost/timing/fuel/whatever I am not sure but once it is below 4000rpm it runs fine.

I have been searching other posts, I found one where the symptoms are similar and the possible fault is either BOV's or the boost solenoid.

Cheers :D

It might not be the AFMs themselves but a problem in the plug or wiring. I had similar problem when i first got my car and swapped my ARF with known working ones, but the problem was still there so i ruled them out. It turned out to be a problem in the wiring causing one ARF to intermittently drop in voltage, thus causing the stalling/rough running. I rewired both my AFM and have never had a problem since.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
    • Steam valve seals are usually responsible for cold start smoke, it goes away once engine warmed up. Disconnect it let engine breathers and let it breath freely, see if problem goes away after a short drive. Also check to make sure engine oil drain pipe is not blocked or kinked. 
    • Haha thanks! Yea I'm moving over from 2x 1000cc jets pre throttle over to 6x 190cc direct port jets and 1x 500cc pre throttle jet.  Direct port comes with all the advantages you would expect, except that pre throttle does cool down IAT'S more. That's why my direct port nozzle placement is closest to the plenum as possible in the runners to allow the air more time to cool before being sucked in. I'm also putting that one 500cc pre throttle jet to help with more cooling. It's a hybrid system. There's a lot more advantages to moving over to a PWM solenoid with a constant pressure system vs my old PWM pump setup, but I'll get more into that once I'm done converting everything over. The ricer in me is excited to see SS tubing all over my manifold though!
×
×
  • Create New...