Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah i did, but, being so low and 255's checking from the side where i did they looked fine cos the outside 3/4 was good but it was the inside that was scrubbed out and to see that you either need to stick your head right under or look from the back. Theres always something you dont notice.

talkin bout something u dont notice, bout 3 months after i got mine i found an old turbo timer with a couple broken wires apart from that i guess it works ill see soon when i go to hook up my new one, i found that like behind the steering wheel in the dash, and the dealers didnt even know bout it so it looks like they checked out the car thouroughly haha

cheers....

www.freewebs.com/2BNVS_r33

Basically NEVER BUY A PERFORMANCE CAR FROM A USED CAR DEALER. An importer is a different thing from an import dealer. I would only buy an import from an importer in the future. Especially under the new RAW scheme for imports.

:werd:

Good luck with the fair trading stuff

As a point of note, I would say by personal experience only to get an inspection better than the NSW RACV vehicle inspection equivalent. Cos they do a more detailed check than a RWC (which is basically nothing) and nothing with regards to engine internals are checked meaning when u get the car and get a proper service u are left with a big bill. Get a full VACC inspection where they put it on the hoist instead.

my 2c

yer there are previously before i went to the car yard i actually got my car me and a mate went to another one and asked the salesman if they have or get in skyline turbos, he looked at us and laughed and said all skylines are turbo, my mate and i looked at each other and jus walked off...if they dont know that there are such thing as non-turbo skylines, what hope will they have at knowing anything else..

and also another one i went to with the same mate and my dad, the salesman was sayin to my dad that if i came up by myself without him and wanted to buy an import he wouldnt let me ( coz im young) and he has children and wouldnt wanna see me hurt myself or some bull5hit, i went up there the week later without my dad and he was ready to sign papers coz i wanted to see if he really meant that, guess he was jus tryin to be a hero and pretend he actually cared. Ah well.

cheers...

www.freewebs.com/2BNVS_r33

thats some pretty scary stuff to hear...

I'm about to fork out $20k for my first sportscar R33gtst.

After looking for weeks on the net etc it seemed to me that many dealers seem to charge high prices for skylines with questionable mileage etc.

Better prices for private but still getting 3rd hand cars etc

So I started looking at importers i found Carmen Import Centre @

Brendale QLD and went round to suss them out.

I talked to Craig Walker there for about 30mins he came accross really well plus he had a nice silver series 2 R33 which i thought was the dux nuts.

So in 2 weeks Im going to ask him to import a grey R33 gtst 93/94 for my budget but must be no accident damage or mods not even bigger wheels!

Im still pretty scared about the whole thing but hoping everything will work out will post again with my experiences so hopefully other skyline nuts can get a fair go

CU

yer my parents wanted to get a car that hadn't been registered by a previous owner here in aus, so the caryard was the only owners of it, to save the fear of 3rd hand cars etc, so thats why we got it from the dealer, bit more expensive than private and got a couple extra's but yer, as beeing my 1st car i was bit freaked with the whole thing and when a few problems appeared i was panicing but fixed them up and now i couldnt be happier

cheers...

www.freewebs.com/2BNVS_r33

yep thats exactly the same with me, if i took bit more time with it i could've really looked into a fair few others but since my 1st car bein excited as i was, it ended up like this but nether the less its all good now so...just a lesson that i learnt..

cheers...

www.freewebs.com/2BNVS_r33

i had a dodgy experience buying from a car yard which specialised in newly imported cars - got the car checked by an independent motor checker who did a really thorough job and i was happy with the condition it was in - it was a great price for what it was cos it had slight accident damage and been repaired - i was happy with that too...

the main problem was the warranty - i bought a 3 year gold warranty for $500 from them to cover 'everything' (all the stuff u can cover with a warranty neway) and i asked them all about this warranty, they said u dont have to service it more often that normal, etc etc etc... we're giving u a good deal on this warranty blah blah

so i paid em $460 i think for it instead of $899 - they said that was their dealer price.. and when i got the car it had the wrong warranty book with it - they said 'we ran out' - so i called up the warranty company to check it out and it'd been put through as a $150 bronze/crap warranty for 1 year!!.... i called the dealer, got the runaround and eventually gave up

the one up i had on him was that he'd sold me a 5 speed auto thinking it was a 4 speed auto!!! hahahahahah

so he can s&ck my d%ck and go to hell...

but i agree people like that should be shot btw :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...