Jump to content
SAU Community

Wheels Changing Direction On Their Own ?

Dicer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dicer Collaborator

Dicer

Posted
Posted

Just wondering how normal this might be (I'm pretty sure it aint...). I picked up my car this week, 2000 Skyline R34 GTV (N/A) coupe. The steering holds to the left mostly so I went to get the wheels aligned. Was told it was 4mm out at the front, 2mm at the back. Was told camber and everything is set up 'right'. The car still holds to the left, I went back and told them. They drove it again and eventually agreed so changed the tyres. We went for another quick drive and he tells me it's holding to the right now so it must be the tyres.

I drive off and realise it's still holding to the left. :P The steering seems to very easily change direction when driving depending on the angle of the road. Even on seemingly flat roads it will veer and happens with / without braking so probably not due to the discs. So my question is how normal is this in a Skyline ? I will go to centerline suspension and try to sort it out when I have some spare time but alas that won't be for a while so just hoping to get some ideas in the meanwhile

:D .

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Pretty sure its just alignment. If you can get more castor added that will help, or maybe a bit of toe. If you got a printout of the settings post it up so the gurus can take a look, and give you real answers instead of my guesses.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

a print out of the alignment settings (after not before) will reveal all :blush: Apart from alignment settings I once had a trouble with badly uneven tyre wear which casued a pull. but start with the alignment - what were the results?

Dicer Collaborator

Dicer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

These guys didn't give me a printout :blush: It was my local Bridgestone. After driving my other car and comparing I may have been overanalysing this. BTW my suspension is stock (as with every other aspect of the car).

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

If they dont give you a print-out, they haven't done it properly!!!

I had a Firestone dealer in Deception Bay Qld do the same thing, perform an alignment on my car because it was chewing the inner corners of the tires off premeturely.

I had new tires and an alignment done at the same time, drove home from Brisbane to Sydney, and found that I had chews excess wear on the inner edges AGAIN :blush:

Anyway, took it to a guy in Sydney who I trust 100%, got the alignment done, got a print out of the before and after settings, was told to take the sheet back to the previous aligner and laught at them, and the tires worn evenly ever since.

Sometimes you will get people that cant align wheels for their life, it doesn't take much to "tell" someone you can align their wheels, but unless they are willing to provide a printout of the settings, either they haven't done it, or haven't done it properly, and either way, I wouldn't go back there.

B.

  • 3 weeks later...
turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

Diver, find someone else to align the wheels.

It's not uncommon for import owners to shuffle between 4 or 5 places until they get the perfect alignment, because imports are not commonly known cars, and some places just assume it will have similar figures to another car.

As mentioned before, I had a Soarer aligned in Firestone Deception Bay Brisbane, no print out, but there was marks on the bolts, so they had changed settings under the car, and done something.

It originally went in with an issue of scrubbing the insides of the tires, and pulling slightly to the left, this was before and after I swapped wheels and tires, and had just gone and put 95% worn 2nd hand 17" tires on the beast.

Anyway, got the car back, it drove straight, but as it was scrubbing insides, this was more my concern.

Anyway, drove home to Sydney, did about 15,000kms of other trips (I am a high milage driver) and the insides of the 95% 17" tires where stuffed AGAIN.

Took it to my normal guy, 4 new Pirelli Tires, and an alignment, and he printed off the before and afters of the alignment, and there was a HUGE difference in the figures.

I am now up for tires on those 17" wheels again, but this time I have done 62,890kms on the wheels, all 4 tires ahve worn the same amount all the way around, AND all 4 tires have worn perfectly even from the outside edge, to the inside edge.

These wheels are now on my Skyline GTR as well, and the tires will be changed in a few weeks (there is still 1.3mm of tread left).

I will be going back to the same guy for the next tire and wheel alignment, because he actually knows what he's doing.

B.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...