N1 Oil Amd Water Pump In Rb20det?

[LedZepLen]

I'm just getting the rest of my parts and am in the process of installing a front facing intake manifold and TD05 upgraded turbo to go into my custom intercooler and want to know is i should buy atleast an N1 oil pump to go with my mods.

My main concern is spending $350 on a pump and finding out later it cost tripple that to install because the engine had to come out. I will put these in in the comming months no doubt about it but is it an economical install to do or if it's a big job putting in a new oil and water pump.

If i dont put it in now i'll do it a bit down the road because i wanna get a tri metal head gasket for good measures too.

[NYTSKY]

Water pump will be ok to do,but the oil pump is a different matter.

The oil pump was one of the last things i pulled off my motor when stripping it down(out of the car).

So i can only imagine it will cost alot to get it replaced with the N1 item.

[dwest]

Water pump will be ok to do,but the oil pump is a different matter.

The oil pump was one of the last things i pulled off my motor when stripping it down(out of the car).

So i can only imagine it will cost alot to get it replaced with the N1 item.

Oil pump isnt easy but worth it. You have to remove the oil pan and crank pully unslot the crank from it unscrew EVERYTHING around it take a hammer rubber of course and tap it out then slot the new one in screw it up add some high temp sealant, slot the crank back in, put in the other small things and then do what you did in the beginning in reverse order.

N1 is good but so is OEM if your not trying to make a all powerful Rb20det.

[bubba]

Don't bother with the N1 water pump, a standard OEM item will suffice (I've got a standard RB20 item waiting to go on when mine dies), the N1 is designed for sustained high revs and doesn't really like day to day putting around town stuff.

I am running an N1 oil pump but it's generally an engine out job to change. Will be fine if you don't sit on the limiter too much I think. My engine is a twincam 30 limited to 6800rpm so I didn't see the need to fork out for a Tomei/Jun oil pump..

Edited April 28, 2008 by bubba

[Bliksem]

It isnt an engine out job and can be done in half a day with a hoist.

I changed mine and it was a matter of loosening engine mounts, raising motor several inches, remove:

radiator

Harmonic Balancer

Timing Belt + Crank Pulley

Sway bar

Sump

and finally oil pump.

[Sydneykid]

The N1 oil pumps have the wide flange drive, the RB20 crank has the narrow flange drive. If you fit a wide flange pump to a narrow flange crank you run a high risk of cracking the pump as the drive is not centered on the oil pump rotor. To run an N1 oil pump on an RB20 you need a crank collar, which is an engine out and full dismantle job to fit.

Cheers

Gary

[bubba]

It isnt an engine out job and can be done in half a day with a hoist.

I changed mine and it was a matter of loosening engine mounts, raising motor several inches, remove:

radiator

Harmonic Balancer

Timing Belt + Crank Pulley

Sway bar

Sump

and finally oil pump.

I've done it without removing motor but you need some special things and it's not super easy. We have a brace that sits on the sills up top, support the motor with that and drop the subframe.

[Bliksem]

Hmm Im also running a DOHC 30... I didnt use an engine brace or drop the sub-frame. I Just jacked the motor up slightly and slipped a socket under each engine mount to gain that extra inch. I found there was more than enough working room by doing this combined with the removal of the radiator.