Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering how much $ im lookin at about roughly for a full white respray, the cars already white just has sum fairly faded parts and ppl have keyed it and chipped bits off the paint off :banana: , i kno u pay extra if u want the inside of an an engine bay resprayed etc bt im jus lookin at the outside , as the inside doesnt need any at all.

cheers

Alex

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/
Share on other sites

Price realy depends on work that is needed but as people have said that it will fall between 3/5k for a desent job .

the parts that effect prices are dents off cause windows been taken out if they have rubbers that are hard up againt the paint (some will say that this doesn't need to happen but this is why you see paint flaking in these area on skylines) how much work is needed to the front bumber before paint ,body kit will also cost more as well if a big one.

If its a basic white with a few scatches stone chips and a few shoppping dents that need to be done I would say around 3k from there the above will start to cost more .

Ps I am in Perth nth the river and do this for a living so if you need a quote advise or info feel free to pm me or come see me at my shop Pm for this as well if wanted .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3831209
Share on other sites

I think itd be good if we could get a rough price table or chart happening? Like how much you'd expect to pay for certain things. Example if you only needed your new front bar sprayed and what you could expect to pay depending on what prep work you had done.

This is hard as this all depends on the panel or bumber etc .

Fibre glass costs alot more than plastic second costs alot more than new.

Most places would charge about 400.00 for a plastic bar about 600 for the same in fibre glass .

This would apply for the bonnets as well about 400.00 steel in and out and between 400 to 1k for a fibre glass depending on work involved to prep .

As you can see I could go on for some time but what I am trying to say ther eis no real approx price as per say .

Colours also lay a factor as well in cost some colours can be done in 2 to 3 coats some take up to 5 which is nearly twice the colour some colours require 3 stages to reach the end colour .

PS people doing their own prep work can work out costing you more in the end as not many people prep well or use the right products this is best left to the person you want to do the job or with their advise so you are both going in the same direction

Edited by Xicon
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3831231
Share on other sites

It depends on wha paints you get - Acrylic, Enamel, 2 pac in a solid, metallics or custom colour...

Its usually cheper to get the shop to buy them for you anyway, or are you just after an approx cost?

You gotta think of it like this:

Undercoat

Colour

Clear

you'll use approx 3-5L of each when spraying the car (depending on the thinners mix)

I purchased the paints for my 31 home respray at *almost* trade price from the local Auto1

total was about $700 for metallic 2pacs.

2pac undercoat ~ 5L + Hardener

quick dry 2pac enamel ~6L (3 colours)

2pac Clear ~ 5L + Hardener

2pac Thinners ~ 10L

All DeBeers paints.

Edited by B. J.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/216867-respray-costs/#findComment-3832107
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...