Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I have bought myself a power FC, hopefully getting here this afternoon or tomorrow.

It is my understanding that the base map on it will be safe to run the car with for awhile before getting a tune yes? I have stock injectors and AFM, stock turbo running around 11psi.

I can just replace the stock ecu and drive the car like normal? How safe is the stock PFC map? And in theory could I drive the car every day for say a month or two without having to worry about getting a tune, or should I wait until I can get a tune done at the same time?

On an unrelated note, when booting it in my car, usually in 2nd and 3rd gear, full throttle results in lots of popping and sluggish acceleration, but say 80% throttle it pulls hard. I am thinking either lower gapped plugs might fix this or perhaps my coils are stuffed. Thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217197-quick-powerfc-question/
Share on other sites

no problem driving the car for a while on the base tune. personally I wouldn't be taking it to the circuit or drag strip in that time but just driving around will cause no problems. ;)

The basic PFC questions are covered in the PowerFC FAQ

Have you read it?

I have yes, it is very usefull and I will be using it as a reference while doing the swap. It does breifly mention that the base map provides more torque etc etc but also reccomends a tune (obviously)

I just want to make sure that until I get said tune, I am not risking my engine by driving to work for a few weeks.

the problem with your car accelerating sounds like a coil issue had the same problem with mine only when i stamped on the gas the car would miss one hell of a lot check all my coils to find 3 had been replaced with new items and the others were still original pulled them out and found cracks in them replaced them and haven't had any problems at all used to be kinda scary when over taking and you plant the foot and the car just doesn't seem to pick up fast enough and you've got traffic heading your way

the problem with your car accelerating sounds like a coil issue had the same problem with mine only when i stamped on the gas the car would miss one hell of a lot check all my coils to find 3 had been replaced with new items and the others were still original pulled them out and found cracks in them replaced them and haven't had any problems at all used to be kinda scary when over taking and you plant the foot and the car just doesn't seem to pick up fast enough and you've got traffic heading your way

Haha yep, I have to make SURE i have plenty of space when overtaking to allow for a few periods of poor acceleration. I have suspected my coils for some time but never actually inspected them, I might pull them this arvo and do a visual inspection, see if there are obvious signs. I would happily buy some splitfires but they aren't exactly cheap.

Ok I got the Power FC this afternoon and was determined to get it all working myself.

Put it in, attached Loom. Car dies within 1 second of starting. Yes I cleared the previous data and also set the boost control option to off. It seems to be saving data fine, the car just won't start properly. Starts, gets to maybe 800rpm then dies. Giving it some throttle makes no difference.

Any help is much welcome

EDIT: Ok is running now, I had a Safc before which I had disconnected, plugged it back in but set it to not do anything, PFC is now idiling the car. Must be some wiring issue.

Edited by Lachlan33

spent 5 bucks on a tube of ultra blue(gasket silicone maker) covered my coils to insulate them, never had a problem again, even when running 16-17 psi, its tight arse and doesn't look good but beats spending $100s of dollars on splitfires...

Hope this helps.

Ok just got back from a quick drive with the PFC. And holy crap, even without a tune I love it already.

1: Car no longer pops and bangs every gear change or throttle lift (not that I really minded that :domokun:)

2: With an Atmo BOV I used to watch the revs dip very low and have to catch it or risk stalling (made stopping at lights a PITA). Using the PFC I set the idle to 800rpm and this problem now does not exist. It hunts a little but never dips below the 800.

3: I have my full throttle back! Its been quite awhile since I have gone WOT in the car because it would just start to miss, pop and bang and my acceleration would go out the window. This is now 95% fixed, the car pulls hard again. I heard the odd pop here and there a couple times but its chalk and cheese to what it was before

4: The car overall feels more like a proper working car again and not some backyard tuner deluex with dozens of minior issues I had gotten used to.

PFC FTW!

Edited by Lachlan33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don’t be silly enough to think it’ll never happen either 
    • I take it that you bought the centre to suit the GTR axles? As in there was a plan, not just somehow lucky that it worked? It all looks excellent, by the way.
    • New engine block time. Up to you whether you want to keep going down this road with this project. Unfortunately a lot of these cars are like this. The road to getting these cars into decent shape is long and not fun for reasons that you're discovering. 
    • Essay time. First things first, an RB running stock turbo and boost levels shouldn't get so bad as to stall from reversion if the recirc valve has been deleted. Should get a little fluffy and annoying, but in my experience, not so bad as to stall. Of course, every car is a bit different, so it remains possible that stalling will happen. So, running with no recirc valve is somewhat of an option, for otherwise stock stuff. Atmo BOVs cause all sorts of shit, even on an otherwise stock setup. Only gets worse the higher the boost and the bigger the turbo. At that point you really need to go for a different ECU and no AFM. Rebuilding the stock recirc valve configuration is not hard. You just need a stock or aftermarket BOV with the appropriate adapter for the 2 bolt flange on the back of the J pipe, and to get/make an appropriate ~1" pipe to get the air back to the turbo inlet, and to possibly modify the inlet (if it is not stock) to take the recirc pipe back in. Not hard. Just takes some cutting and welding. Putting an R35 type AFM into the car anywhere is not as simple as just buying the AFM and throwing it in. You will also need to buy the appropriate boss that will then need to be welded onto the pipe where you're installing it. You can clearly see why by looking at the photo posted above. They are not a "simple" swap for a stocker. You can't put on in place of the stock AFM. You can put one in place of the stock AFM, if you get the mounting boss and weld it to some pipe and otherwise make that pipe piece work like the stock AFM housing. Or you can buy such an adapter, either complete with the 4 bolt flange for the air box, or without, for varying degrees of work needed to then make it fit your stock airbox or some pod filter or whatever you have going on. Oh, and the R35 AFM is not plug and play. The wiring is different, but changing that is trivial. The plug is also different so you either end up repinning the original wires onto the new plug, or you just use a short adapter. If you weld a boss to the cold side pipe, the cold side pipe really wants to be 3", otherwise the scaling on the meter can get a bit weird, but whatever the pipe size, it's not as easy as just using the (fully documented in the Nistune doco) simple method for choosing R35 AFM in X" pipe size in the software, because the scaling will already be a bit different. Anyway, all of this has been comprehensively worked through on the Nistune forums, so there is full knowledge available. I would use a Link/Haltech before I would bother putting an AFM into a cold side pipe. That's a lot of effort for a bodge. Nistune is great, can work well even at fairly high power levels, but you are stuck with the limitations of it being the stock ECU, which includes needing to use an AFM, which is not always convenient for every set of modifications. You have to have a think about what you already have, what you want to have, and decide early if you'd be better off jumping ship to an aftermarket ECU. This so you don't waste time and money doing things 2 or 3 times. Never heard of ECUmaster. Sounds like a backyard operation. If there are good tuners for it where you are, and it is a solid product, then it will be fine. We're only talking about an R engine here. Back in the day they all ran on crude nasty early 90s ECUs and they were fine. You don't need a rocket surgeon's ECU to run one.
    • So left off with high hopes of having a gearbox in pretty quickly........ Got the adapter plate that week and had to chase a few threads and work out how/where everything goes as no instructions. Got the adapter fitted, test fitted gearbox and found had to cut and shave a few things. Tunnel required some hits with a decent hammer to give some clearance on passenger side but it fits with no problems,  could fit a 8hp70 with a little more work. For a cross member I wasn't going to spend $1100 on so shiny machined piece. Went through a few designs and remembered I had a gktech s chassis to cd00# cross member. Fitted that and found its close enough with a few extra bits welded so have gone that way and still a work in progress.  After this got into modifying the intercooler with some bends and clamps. I was procrastinating on this as was not keen to cut up and weld it myself but happy with the outcome.  Onto the radiator shroud and oil cooler mount. This thing took way longer than I thought it would but having to add an extra oil cooler for the trans and wanting everything within the chassis rails its good enough for now. It mounts to the chassis and gives plenty of room for lines and pipes. All the coolers are rubber mounted and sealed the shroud on the top and sides, will use some tape to seal the bottom gap of about 10mm. 20250508_111500.mp4   Next job was to build the new diff and after a delay with a friend got built this week. I ended up putting it all together with supervision and was good to learn how to set one up correctly. I ended up going a 3.69 ratio, nismo 1.5 way gt pro with gtr Axel's. Stripped it all down, gave all the parts a good clean, pressed on new bearings and set backlash. Was good working in a clean assembly room with all the gear. Once got home wire wheeled the case and hit it with some rollbar/chassis black paint. Got a few more bits done but will leave them for the next update.
×
×
  • Create New...