Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

hey i have hks fully ajustable suspesion and hks camber tops they are great the car handles like its on rails and the ride is still good not to rock hard and to sloppy at all.. i have a 180sx its got 17's and the suspesion sits about half an inch off the tyres there cool but it all came with the car when i imported it but in perth a company called wilkinson suspesion set it all up for me and its great.. have a chat to them and they might be able to hook you up with some..

This is a reply I gave to another thread but it applies here.

If you are serious about getting your car to handle or too find out why it does not handle then there really is only one place and guy to go. Top Performance Koni employs Ric Kemp who is one of the top set up guys in the country at this time. If you go there at an arranged time you can take Ric for a drive (if you are smart you will let him drive it he will not be going hard just wants to feel the charateristics of the car) and he wil tell you what is going on and what you need etc. They will not rip u off nor tell you rubbish to sell you expensive stuff. They have just set up my GTR and it cost me heaps less than other places. They have the score on the board as they have set up some of the known motor sport team cars in this country as well as some of the fastest circulating street cars at local sprint days. These guys know their stuff and are not macho imbolsiles. They will help set your car up to really do the job you need it to do. Anyone is motorsport circles will know Rick and use him often.

It is up to you guys but for me if you really want to know what is going on and what to do about it too get the car to handle go see these guys. The improvments to my GTR is massive and the ride etc cannot be beat. The mods are small (king springs and Adjustable shockes (yellows) but they set the spring artes and bump and rebound to alter the charateristics of the car as it did not truly like the handling of the GTr (to much oversteer). The car now is incredably neutral with much greater turn in and almost zero oversteer on the exit. It is very flatering to drive.

Well thats the end of the add. No I don't owrk there nor own a share in it but they do know me well.

Mick

I ordered the Sports Pack (Shocks & Springs) from Whiteline last week, I gave them a ring today to make sure they got the order and that everything was ok, they told me that they have to get the springs made up and they get them made in Brissy then they send them to whiteline then they send them to you. They said it takes about two weeks for them to be made, but the problem is the Bilsteins they have to be shipped in from overseas because they have none in stock and there is currently a back order on them and they could take up to a month to get here.:D

Just thought I'd let you all know if you where planning on getting them for your self's.

ok went to centreline suspension in thomastown today (koni recommended them) and got the following quote

f+r koni sports shocks (adjustable)

f+r king springs

f+r whiteline adjustable sway bars

f whiteline castor bushes

f+r whiteline camber bushes

front whiteline polished strut tower brace (FREE, he threw it in)

all brand new, fitted and aligned with 2 year guarantee

what u guys think ?

oh and also, im a bit strapped on cash at the moment so if there is anything in that kit that you think i dont 'need' then please let me know, like im after good street handling and sometimes i will go to the drags but that isnt essential, and also want it lowered and looking good :D

cheers guys

Sounds pretty good. I would do shockes and springs first and see what you think. Also will make the biggest difference. Will do a little investigation for you and see what others think of sway bars etc. What sway bars, if any, do GTS-T's run now?

Mick.

oh, he quot3ed $2655

so if i just go shocks n springs, what if my bushes etc are worn ? what do i do ? coz i think one of my sides of suspension are stuffed coz it makes funny noises, what should i routinly replace to get pretty much a 'full' shock and spring replacement with brand new stuff

Take it to pedders or centreline suspension in thomastown where you got your quote done and get them to check it all out shouldn't cost anymore then $20 then go from there, it saves a lot of guessing.

Sound like a excellent kit. Your car will feel totally different when it is all done. If you are like me you will just go for the lot, then spend the next 12 months paying it off while crying poor! Car will drive really nice though.

everythnig is stock on the car now, i dont have the money for the full kit at this time, so im gonig to do the shocks, springs and camber kits i think, maybe just the front camber kit for now, and do the rest later when i have more money,already paying the loan for the car dont need more debt :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...