Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just installed a walboro fuel pump, but realised i didnt mount it inside the fuel tank, i just put it in. is this a big problem if its sitting loosely inside the fuel tank? I dont really want to do it all again, but i think i will have to..

car seems to be running fine (96 skyline gtst)

yeah your right, ill take it out again tommorrow and fix it. the black screw lid thing was a real bitch to tighen

Seriously mate, step away from the car and don't go near it again. You need to not touch any car in a mechanical fashion.

I'll get my 4yo niece to come around and sort it out for you

3lit3 32- you dont have to be a wanker about it. the reason why i said it is because the original fuel pump was sitting loosely in the tank when i removed it. then i saw the article about fuel pumps here and saw it should actually be mounted inside the fuel tank.

it is securely connected to the original bracket. but the bracket is not mounted inside the fuel tank. i didnt know it was meant to be mounted until i read a article on installing the fuel pump here and saw the bracket should be mounted. (the fuel pump/bracket was loose in the tank when i took it out, so i just presumed (wrongly) it was normal).

3lit3 32- you dont have to be a wanker about it. the reason why i said it is because the original fuel pump was sitting loosely in the tank when i removed it. then i saw the article about fuel pumps here and saw it should actually be mounted inside the fuel tank.

You may think I'm being a wanker but I am actually trying to help you.

By working on your car yourself, you will most likely destroy it slowly but surely. If you can't afford to pay a professional to do it, at least take some time to research the install before you do it and use some common sense as a guide.

It sucks more because that black lid is such a bitch to get off

That is true. But, you can actually buy the tool for it from Nissan. You can also easily make one and if that fails, a meter long flat bar will do it also. Make sure the bar is not sharp on the end...place it against one of the extrusions on the edge of the lid and then tap the bar with a hammer or your palm (using some sort of padding). Hit it an anti-clockwise direction and it will come loose. If you are competant at welding, it is even easier to make a tool for it.

jesus go easy guys. I recon if we open the fuel tanks of every syline on here about 20% of them will have the pump cradle loose from the floor. Mine has come loose in the race car twice now, both times leaving the 12v supply broken off and floating loose in the fuel as it was so poetically said above

the factory mounting on the floor of the tank is crap and unreliable.

thanks for the criticisms.

another thing i forgot to ask. when i installed the walboro pump, it replaced the 12v and earth connections, and says in the instructions to use a crimp connection (supplied with the pump) to connect the factory wires (connecting to the factory harness) to the walboro wires (which connect to the new harness on the new pump). i have done this, but i thought it was a bit dodgy as its probably sitting in fuel. is this what everyone else has done with walboro pumps? or is there a better way to connect the wires so theyre better insulated inside the tank. i was thinking of puting some kind of tape around the connections, but though it would probably cause more harm if the tape came undone and was loose in the fuel tank.

thanks for the criticisms.

another thing i forgot to ask. when i installed the walboro pump, it replaced the 12v and earth connections, and says in the instructions to use a crimp connection (supplied with the pump) to connect the factory wires (connecting to the factory harness) to the walboro wires (which connect to the new harness on the new pump). i have done this, but i thought it was a bit dodgy as its probably sitting in fuel. is this what everyone else has done with walboro pumps? or is there a better way to connect the wires so theyre better insulated inside the tank. i was thinking of puting some kind of tape around the connections, but though it would probably cause more harm if the tape came undone and was loose in the fuel tank.

No tape will stick inside the fuel tank.

A better way would be to solder the wires together. If you are going to use crimp terminals, make sure you stagger them so they are not next to each other. That way if they come loose or break, they will not touch each other

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok I get you. But isn’t the butterfly intake a headache with the +T?  see this is my plan so far but please advise me into the right direction.  Nistune Ecu, 1000cc Bosch injectors, TD05 or TD06 Kinugawa turbo using stock rb25det exhuast manifold, walbro fuel pump unsure of model I think it’s 450/460, spitfire coils and sparks to suit and a R35 MAF sensor and boost sensor.    I was thinking maybe do a cheap eBay plenum $400-500 or try find a stock det neo intake. I think I’d port match it so it’s getting the full capacity but open to advice please.  Thanks 
    • The issue now is the 'fuel cut' while driving, and when it happend, it does not stall. This, I did not test the fuel pressure while driving as I cannot with a fuel pressure gauge. I do have Nistune logs, yes. I have also replaced the MAF Sensor.   Also related to the FPG Fuel Hanger – I just realized that I need a Deutsch Crimp Tool to crimp some cables for the FPG Fuel Hanger. Need to purchase additional cables as the kit only included 2, which are for the float. FPG has not responded to my emails so far since purchasing. I thought about taking it to someone and having it done professionally, but I am reluctant since everyone I took it to messed up in some way.  
    • There's a good German place in Brisbane if youre up for the drive 😛
    • The German place in Cabramatta was rock solid, fresh pretzel cooked to order back then. Then it went all quiet, after all the poker machines were removed, then I believe it closed for good. I did drive past the other week and noticed outdoor lighting a big screen, but no idea what is there now.  
    • Yeah I suspect even if you hold airmass per cycle/cylinder constant if you get too far away from stock you're still going to have problems running the factory tune within the bounds of the factory load scale. Cams, different displacement/rod ratio, etc. I'm just lucky that the GTIII-SS with wastegate boost + CA compliance cats is pretty much equivalent to stock turbos. When I have actual space I can finally get it tuned and modify the fuel system for flex fuel to 100% handle any detonation concerns when cranking the boost to whatever those dinky turbos can put out.
×
×
  • Create New...