Jump to content
SAU Community

Nulon oil  

24 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone.

I recently fell for the propaganda from Nulon. I bought Nulon 10w-40, since then been having problems. Engine revving strangely. Feels like it's not as free revving at high revs etc. I used Shell 5w-40 before and had no problems.

Has anyone tried Nulon, or had problems with it? Feedback would be appreciated. I'm trying to eliminate things to get to the bottom of the problem.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217719-nulon-oil/
Share on other sites

best to stick to the good brands ive found :nyaanyaa: but yet again your problems may not exactly be oil associated, VAC leaks, spark fuel can also cause these dramas, but as stated above if your unsure drain it replace filter and oil with quality brand and see if it helps

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217719-nulon-oil/#findComment-3842293
Share on other sites

probably pointless to the question your asking about nulon but i used castrol in my car once. each time i started it cold could hear tappets clicking (meaning all oil is drained out of head and not leaving a film on anything). changed it again 2 weeks later to an $80 for 4 litres motul and havent looked back since. i figure oil is like blood in your body so for the extra $50 or so when your doing a service its well and truely worth it. On the other hand some people say oil is oil but thats just my 2 cents worth!

brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217719-nulon-oil/#findComment-3842626
Share on other sites

i know audi use castrol or motul if you have the R or S series , ive got shell in the Audi and motul in the skyline havent had any problem with them

every car has different clearences .. mightbe worth it changing oil n filters

P.s use oil flush t o completely get rid of old oil from the motor helps it keep it sludge free

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217719-nulon-oil/#findComment-3842876
Share on other sites

probably pointless to the question your asking about nulon but i used castrol in my car once. each time i started it cold could hear tappets clicking (meaning all oil is drained out of head and not leaving a film on anything). changed it again 2 weeks later to an $80 for 4 litres motul and havent looked back since. i figure oil is like blood in your body so for the extra $50 or so when your doing a service its well and truely worth it. On the other hand some people say oil is oil but thats just my 2 cents worth!

brett

Yes, i have the same with the Nulon. Tappets clicking on start up. Highly irritating, just another bad experience i guess. Maybe i should stop being so cheap and buy good oil. I have used Nulon additives a few times and had no problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217719-nulon-oil/#findComment-3843309
Share on other sites

i have alot of different oils in the 4 years ive had my 33 ( shell motul nulon royal purple redline VP racing oils and more) full synthetics are the way to go. you will also find that the older the engine the heavier wheight oil you need to use eg older 15w50 newer 5w30 or 10w40 winter you can use a slightly thinner oil it holds its consistancy in colder climate in summer the oil thins out as it gets hotter it will not protect the engine as much if you are using 5w30 or 10w40 in older engine.

the best thing to do is use an oil flush and put in a better oil.

i found that the best oils for me where royal purple, redline, VP racing and motul is borderline for me.

my 2 cents worth

cheers marcus

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217719-nulon-oil/#findComment-3847530
Share on other sites

+1 for motul turobolight I used it in my NA/34 it felt much better then when the service center was putting in mobil. Its not even that expensive I think i payed like $65-$75 for like 5 liters at autobarn in browns plains. I used both 5w-40 and 10w-40 both seem to be fine id recommend motul. Never gave me a single problem and I used it for about a year and a half.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217719-nulon-oil/#findComment-3848464
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...