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i have a hks gd-max twin plate clutch and its due for a new set of plates..... does neone know if the flywheels can be machined or just left how they are bcuz u cant touch them.... yeh if neone has ne idea thats much appreciated

or who i could call to find out would be gr8 aswell

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i have a hks gd-max twin plate clutch and its due for a new set of plates..... does neone know if the flywheels can be machined or just left how they are bcuz u cant touch them.... yeh if neone has ne idea thats much appreciated

or who i could call to find out would be gr8 aswell

Hi There mate,There's a few things you need to know about flywheels when replacing a clutch,first point of concern and probably the hardest to know unless you asked a lot of questions of the previous owner,or you are the first owner, is,how many clutches has it had,everytime a clutch is replaced the flywheel should be machined even if it is only a skim to make sure the mating surfaces have full contact of the whole surface,so if it's been done before, and chances are it has, then you will need to ascertain how much meat is left and what is acceptable tolerance before replacing the flywheel as well,For these tolerances I would ring the guru,Jim Berry in queensland 0738479999 to be sure of your info.

Most places who are prepared to do the job will know what to do but to be safe, know yourself and stipulate.The other thing is whether it's a stock cast flywheel or after market and how much oil has been on it as this creates hard spots and can make it brittle and could make it dangerous,and believe me they can be dangerous especially on fast cars like Skylines,usually these hard spots come out with the machining though so don't worry too much, the tolerances are more important.

After market ones are often thinner as light weight was the objective of their design and the materials they are made of is denser and less porous than cast, so they will have different tolerances and brittle factors.Two of the problem areas that can cause disaster are firstly young guys trying to avoid extra expense because of fund shortages,therefore where they should have replaced a borderline flywheel they don't and accept the risk,and secondly the dowell pins must be replaced with new ones to ensure that centrifugal forces are locked up tight, some people forget to put them back in at all after machining and others use the old slightly butchered ones,not acceptable in my book,or Jim Berry's.

My last bit of advice is replace both engine rear main seal and gearbox seal even if they don't appear to be leaking, as they often start leaking after being disturbed and everything is back together,grease and oil are a clutches worst enemy, more expense for you not long after the work is done,also spend some time making sure your clutch pivot bolt is in good nick and if unsure replace it preferrably with an aftermarket nismo or equivalent as everything has to come out again if that breaks and they often do especially if your clutch is stronger than stock,and lubricate the ball area with a lithium based grease or o-ring motorcycle chain lube foam grease,again sparingly, as the noises these can make unlubed will drive you nuts.

Lastly make sure you replace the clutch spigot bush that slides onto the crankshaft of the engine and lube very sparingly with lithium grease, so none can get on your flywheel or clutch as these make noises also, lots of gearbox places recommend bearing raced spigot bushes as an improvement over brass solid ones also.

Sorry about the long post but there is a lot to know about clutches etc and these tips might save you a lot of headaches down the track, and remember, spend a little extra now and save a lot later on,prevention always costs less than cure.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Edited by grey pearl

ive had the clutch for the last 8months and the plates are worn quite abit on outer edges therefore flywheel has never been machined...

im building the motor aswell so al seals will be brand new....

the only part im unsure of is if i need to get the suface the same as i originally got it to reduce chances of shudder hence it being a ceramic plated twin plate its always a worry.

ive had the clutch for the last 8months and the plates are worn quite abit on outer edges therefore flywheel has never been machined...

im building the motor aswell so al seals will be brand new....

the only part im unsure of is if i need to get the suface the same as i originally got it to reduce chances of shudder hence it being a ceramic plated twin plate its always a worry.

Short answer yes, but remember the tolerance check.Grey Pearl.

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