Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Front Diff Torque

PAV34
 Share

Recommended Posts

PAV34 Mentor

PAV34

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

Ive noticed today the the gauge that shows the Front Diff Torque has started to move during normal straight line driving and the more i put my foot down the higher the gauge will go.

Usually the gauge only moved when i turned a corner quick i think, but never during straight line driving.

Which one is normal!

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/217829-r32-gtr-front-diff-torque/
Share on other sites
PAV34 Mentor

PAV34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think i may have found the answer to my own question.

Is it because I have 17" wheel all round and the tyres i have are 255/40 on the rear and 235/45 at the front?

I recently changed wheels and these were the tyres that came with it.

Does this have a negative effect at all?

Also, the car came with a torque split controller...

bnr#@ Mentor

bnr#@

Posted
Posted

Definitely get same rolling diameter tires front and rear, otherwise one set of wheels are technically trying to travel a greater distance then the other set of wheels, the attesa thinks you have slip and engages 4wd, doing so constantly overheats and wears out the clutch plates in the transfer case

GTS4WD Grand Master

GTS4WD

Posted
Posted

Yes.. You will loose ABS

in the fuse box in the engine bay.. on the left as you open up the bonnet.. the fise said something like ANTI/4WD/PTC.. or of the sorts.. its the first green fuse in the row of small fuses towards the center of the thengine bay.. This way you wont loose abs..

Yawn Mentor

Yawn

Posted
Posted

You can run different sized tyres front and rear as long as the rolling diameter is the same (or close to). An example of this would be something like 265/35/18 and 235/40/18, if my maths is correct.

No good to run the car on 2wd for too long with just the fuse pulled out too. If you want to do it rwd, take out the transfer case too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Whoops!
×
×
  • Create New...