Jump to content
SAU Community

To Standard Rebuild Or To Forged Rebuild

johnsta2k
 Share

Recommended Posts

johnsta2k Community Regular

johnsta2k

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Now your wallet will be the catalyst to how far you go.Once you figure out your budget the rest is easy,just order the parts :(

True true, but it sucks to be paid every forth night though :P gonna go and start looking for my parts :P

Butters Experienced

Butters

Posted
Posted
Honestly my oponion would be to buy a cheap rb25det that is in good condition and chuck it in and continue your voyage to 250rwkw. Keep in mind the stock bottom end still has another 50rwkw in headroom and is still considered safe hp for the engine.

Dont waste your money rebuilding the engine. Buy another one for $1500 and sell your old one for $750 and your laughing.

RB25 will do your 250rwkw standing on its head.

This is the correct answer !!

If you insist on rebuilding the engine then don't bother with forged. As said above the stock 50k donks will do your power level easy.

Also slapping forged pistons in a daily can be annoying if you end up with average pistons or average machine work.

Just rebuild it using nissan gen parts and you will have a tough engine.

Your biggest worry with a rebuild is finding a machinist that won't screw your engine somehow.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Exept quality forged pistons are cheaper than the standard Nissan cast items...All I did was a standard rebuild +20thou with ACL forgies and Bearings. Brand new Oil and Water Pump Timing belt Etc...Never had a problem with piston slap or oil usage...Just make sure you replace all the water and oil lines...i didnt and regretted not doing so as ive been trying to fix them as they fail with the motor in the car.

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

I dont know why you would rebuild a motor to do something a standard one can do.

At the very most i would just put new rings and bearings into your engine to just give it a freshen up but this would be much more costly then getting another engine and chucking it in.

Also use proper oil. Motol 300v will see the engine does not do another bearing.

Yawn Mentor

Yawn

Posted
Posted
Thanks guys, guess I concluded to have a forged rebuild and will note to leave some money for the miscellaneous parts. By the way YAWN saw your R32 at Chasers Motorworks couple days ago, looks hot :bomb_ie:

Haha yeah? What does your car look like? Anything distinctive about it? So I can look out for it next time im there >_< PM me if you like

stolen_s15 Mentor

stolen_s15

Posted
Posted
I dont know why you would rebuild a motor to do something a standard one can do.

At the very most i would just put new rings and bearings into your engine to just give it a freshen up but this would be much more costly then getting another engine and chucking it in.

Also use proper oil. Motol 300v will see the engine does not do another bearing.

I'm with you Guilt-Toy, 250rwkw is still WELL withing the realm of a stock RB25. I would just get a good wrecker motor with a warranty mate, throw in some new rings if you want and be done with it.

The quality of the tune will have more to do with your engine hanging together at those power levels than the internals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • silviaz
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By silviaz · Posted

      It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • GTSBoy
      Did tie rods. Steering now not "springing" back.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...