Jump to content
SAU Community

Cooling-pro Stealth Fmic - Legal?

Ricos

By Ricos,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

~R33AzzA~ Proficient

~R33AzzA~

Posted
Posted
Just a quick question.

Why didn't you hide the return pipe behind the fmic, instead of coming back under it.

I think it would look a lot neater and make fark all difference to the flow of the cooler.

EAS Performance did all my piping and fabrication work on my car. Contact details below.

Old Setup:

post-1811-1210078978_thumb.jpg

New Setup:

post-1811-1210079094_thumb.jpg

The piping I used was pre made to run this way, as I used BLITZ piping.

It would work running it behind though, a mate has it like this on this VL.

Ricos Collaborator

Ricos

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You can make your own piping, buy some exhuast bends (mandrel) and some tube, tack it together and get someone to finish welding it.

It might be mild steel but its easy to do, and not to expensive. If you need tube I can supply some to you as I have a heap of 2.5 inch tube at work.

Mandrel bends are avalible at truck bits for around $10 bucks a bend (don't quote me on price).

Thoughts on mild steel piping? Painted on the outside of course.

where do i get these bends from? Truck Bits? is that a shop?

Do mandrel (dunno what they are lol) bends come sharp U turns?

Lemme know where i can obtain this stuff from and ill look into it further

Thanks for the help thus far :(

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted

Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job.

The problem today, is that people look at these mass produced, badly fitting, China kits and use that as a base price. Well in China workers get paid $20 a week, use shit material, and produce a poor quality final product. Just because you need half a kit doesn't mean it will cost half the price to get it custom done.

~R33AzzA~ Proficient

~R33AzzA~

Posted
Posted

Yeh Truck bits is a buisness, a mandrel bend means. When bent the pipes internal diamiter does not change like a convetional bend, mandrel alows air to flow without resriction. Truck bits is on south gipsland hwy in hampton park. your local exhaus place can supple these also.

Ricos Collaborator

Ricos

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job

ye thats what they all seemed to say, but for the price. i could through in some extra and get the kit...and know it would sit flush with my bar cause the actual core is smaller 600x260 insteal of 600x300.

With the current cooler atm it seems like the whole pipe would hang down, and doesnt seem to be room to run it behind. which would just hit every hump and bump

But, i dont no whehter to get a KIT or not bother and just get a R34 SMIC

hard decision lol

~R33AzzA~ Proficient

~R33AzzA~

Posted
Posted

"Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job"

I did my whole lot including paint for $260 but i waited and got all the pars off the net and did it myself. DIY saves heaps of $$ and is a great way to learn mor about your car.

I got my cooler for a STEAL at $90 Ebay

Piping was $150 off sau

Then paint and a few clamps and other parts needed $50

Best money iv ever spent on a car :(

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
"Honestly $200-$300 is not a steep price for the work involved and parts needed. To get it done properly, it's not going to be a $100 job"

I did my whole lot including paint for $260 but i waited and got all the pars off the net and did it myself. DIY saves heaps of $$ and is a great way to learn mor about your car.

I got my cooler for a STEAL at $90 Ebay

Piping was $150 off sau

Then paint and a few clamps and other parts needed $50

Best money iv ever spent on a car :(

Well you stated the magic, money saving, phrase: DIY :laugh:

Mechanic's do it to earn money, so it need to be worth while.

~R33AzzA~ Proficient

~R33AzzA~

Posted
Posted

Back on topic, My brother recently got a stagea and has decided to go with the cooling pro stealth kit as he is not very DIY lol.

It all comes down to how much money you are prepared to spend and how fast you want it. If its not somthing you need straight away and your good with your hands have a go at it.

If not you can buy the kit and have it in but the end of the week if necessary.

jrocket Proficient

jrocket

Posted
Posted
Did you notice a difference when fitting the 34 cooler? or much of a muchness from the stock.

They go for about $150?

Yeah i did notice the difference. Boost seemed to have crept up a bit. Seems to also run a bit cooler. Plus i got it in preparation for some POWAR :P

Mainly i wanted it because it looked stock etc.

  • 3 months later...
mmjc Enthusiast

mmjc

Posted
Posted
Does any part of the front bar reo need to be cut, trimmed or bashed to fit this kit?

Please help!!

Anyone knows the answer to this? I am interested as well. A guy in the forum with nick name fishy stated that he had to trim the edge of the 'reo' bar. My question as below. Anyone can help?

What do you mean when you say you have to trim the edge of the 'reo' bar? what is a 'reo' bar? I live in Victoria and at the area i live in the boys in blue will ping and ask for an engineer's cert if you any structural changes to the front end of the vehicle. Even a hole in a "structural" LHS apron! (All to do with ADR69 airbags - timing of airbags etc, a bit of a w#@k)

But plastic bits on the bumper is no problems when i checked with an engineer. Can you kindly explain? Any pics of where you had to trim any metal reinforcement at the front end? Thanks Fishy. Great work. I have a GTT with factory nismo front bar and really keen to buy this kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • Kinkstaah
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • JC71
      new 1.5 LSD issues/concerns

      By JC71 · Posted

      looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Archies Flame Grille Meet & Cruise to Kurnell

      By Matt Z · Posted

      Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...