Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

howmuch it cost ya

I got mine off an sau member who was going to manual, I got it all for $560 in the car. I saved alot of money fitting it myself.

The normal price is around the $1000 mark. My mate is instaling this kit in the next few weeks.

Value for money I am very happy, my last 33 was manual, I had a cusion button clutch in it and I chewed thru that in 10 months.

Apparently these actually make ur box last longer as there is very little slip between gears. (as mike from MV explained to me)

nice work. shouldnt that be the otherway around tho? pull back to shift up and push forward to shift down?
Yer it depends on the shifter.

I got mine off an sau member though, so maybe he chose to get the one that is the push forward to shift up type.??

The sequence of shifting up/ down the gears has nothing to do with the shifter, it's the fact that it has a forward (standard) pattern valve body. Also, you'll find most of the B&M ratchet shifters have changeable gates so, they're compatible with both fwd pattern (P-R-N-3-2-1) & reverse pattern (P-R-N-1-2-3) valve bodies.

i watched the video,thats awesome.

what ecu are you using?

Im still using my stock one. I only have mild mods so the pfc is a little while away yet.

Mods:

Turbo back exhaust

FMIC

Fuel pump (Bosch 023)

Manulised auto.

do these kist work on any auto box? to just more suited for skylines.

maybe someone could source somewere to get them.

Give Mike at MV autos a call.

They are in SA but they might be able to send you a kit to suit ur car.

MV autos: 08 83700430 ask for mike.

I've got the pro rachet in my 31, although a KEAS manual valve body instead of the Mv.

KEAS full manual forward pattern valve body

Custom made 2500 hi stall

H/D front band + new 3/4 clutches

3" one-peice tailshaft

Kaaz 1.5 way

Good driveline package :D

Excuse the shonky pic:

IMGP4396.jpg

EDIT: This was a 2nd hand box with 120,000kms (series 3 R31 uses the same auto as the 33)

Seals were replaced along with the front band and 3/4 clutches. Not a full rebuild.

Supporting 200rwkw and 750nm, no hasstles.

Edited by RB30e+t
nice has any1 done any internal work 2 their boxes or just the shift kits

Dynamic Race Transmissions 02 4732 5680 at Penrith rebuilt my thrashed out auto box(rb20det)

retained the auto valve body but it shifts very fast and hard. plus a 2500rpm stall.

Im thinking whether to get a manual valve body or not.

Oh man good to be back to the forum, especially to see this topic come up again. As soon as I can access half-decent internet somewhere, I can watch the video just to be sure to take the plunge and give MV a call. I was about to post the following...well here it is anyway I reckon it's an interesting read for the new-age auto box fans out there ^^. Problem is I am in NZ and I don't know of anybody doing this valve body stuff here so I used to read about it on the forums then I got busy over the past year or so and ended up postponing trying to get in touch with MV. I found it a little annoying not being able to e-mail them as it is the best way to put a specific request when you're on another landmass...but I suppose all happens in good time and my goals are now much more defined than before after a solid 25000 kms of skyline ownership. Now for a long-overdue phone call. Cheers guys!

"I have a R34 gtt auto and a R32 gts25 auto..just got the R32 for a dialy driver coz R34 was killing me with fuel bills. Anyway, I actually don't have a choice but to drive auto so manual conversion out of the question. The 32's gearbox is old and feels beaten up so I am considering several options, as follows:

1. Get a 5-speed tiptronic 'box from a M35 stagea (at least i think it is the 5-speed as found on 350z/V35 skyline etc...) which I'd use in the R34 then fit the R34 tiptronic in the R32..obviously this is probably an obsolete choice but it would greatly improve both cars and I might be able to score the stagea box for fairly cheap. Anyway, I am mainly worried about bellhousing matching and driveshaft in this case. Obviously the gearbox ECU in both cases will have to be retrofitted to the engine ECU's and the 32 'box and ECU relocated to a dark corner until a. I can be stuffed trying to do something productive with it or b. I drop it off at the nearest wrecker's

2. Try to source a 5-speed auto from older nissans without tiptronic and fit that to the R32. As it currently has a 4-speed + O/D, I am also wondering about bellhousing/driveshaft matching on either side of the gearbox. I also need to know which RWD nissan models carried those 5-speed boxes so I can hunt for the parts, and if it is a little tricky then can I simply use any of the boxes from RB25 NA's from R32 through to R34 with the factory R32 gearbox ECU and will they all match up with the factory R32 driveline?"

I hope this starts something fun. Now imagine a 5-speed tiptronic with the MV kit behind a good 'ol turbo RB!!

going to ring this bloke today... hmmm... manual shift kit in the the celsior.... this is definatly going to make a differance... mwhahahaha

just a quick question... and probably a stupid one... if you leave it in 4th with that switch can you still change up and down......

second if left in 3rd or forth and you come to a complete stop what happens if you forget to jup it back down to 1st... does it do it automatically or not and does it stall forcing it to stop in 4th gear.

Edited by Redback
going to ring this bloke today... hmmm... manual shift kit in the the celsior.... this is definatly going to make a differance... mwhahahaha

just a quick question... and probably a stupid one... if you leave it in 4th with that switch can you still change up and down......

second if left in 3rd or forth and you come to a complete stop what happens if you forget to jup it back down to 1st... does it do it automatically or not and does it stall forcing it to stop in 4th gear.

To answer your first question. If you leave the switch on and gear down it will work but as you change back up from 1st to 2nd it goes into nuetral. (iv forgotten to switch it off a few times lol)

As for you 2nd question. I somtimes leave it in 3rd and come to a stop at the lights, but if you try this in 4th it labours as you slow down. Once you come to a complete stop it is just like bein in first, BUT you have to remember to shift down to 1st before you take off or you will be in 3rd.(you will hear plenty of spool from the turbo but you wont get moving to quick)

cold fusion: afaik, the r33 4door turbos came with a 5spd

im pretty sure my r33 4 door only has 4 speed (1 2 D and OD) unless there are 2 levels of overdrive or something?

im assuming a 5 speed would be 1 2 3 D and OD though?

I have been contemplating the black box upgrade for ages, very good to hear and see some real sorta footage of the difference that it makes.

I have the stage 2 body and 3k stall, i think this could be on the cards soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...