Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question recently had engine built by sydney workshop. Had it a week & it blows white smoke only sometimes. Would it be because its just a fresh engine or would it be other circumstances to the problem. Has me slightly worried any ideas guys why this is. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/
Share on other sites

one of your valve stem seals could be causing you a bit of trouble....maybe not sealing correctly because it was damaged when they incorrectly assembled the head last time....or damaged when repairs were being made to the valve train.

send it back and demand they fix it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3848302
Share on other sites

Just a quick question recently had engine built by sydney workshop. Had it a week & it blows white smoke only sometimes. Would it be because its just a fresh engine or would it be other circumstances to the problem. Has me slightly worried any ideas guys why this is. Cheers

Your not having much luck with this engine mate :P

If it were me, I would be taking it to another workshop and sending the original engine builder the bill for any repairs that are needed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3848322
Share on other sites

Your not having much luck with this engine mate :P

If it were me, I would be taking it to another workshop and sending the original engine builder the bill for any repairs that are needed.

Yeah no good blitz. Noluck me should have maybe gone somewhere else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3848358
Share on other sites

Just a quick question recently had engine built by sydney workshop. Had it a week & it blows white smoke only sometimes. Would it be because its just a fresh engine or would it be other circumstances to the problem. Has me slightly worried any ideas guys why this is. Cheers

your description of the problem is very general and not specific enough to necessarily indicate a problem. as you dont indicate when the smoke is seen (idle, under load etc?), it could be possible that the smoke your seeing is just a bit of richness added by your tuner for safety?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3848498
Share on other sites

your description of the problem is very general and not specific enough to necessarily indicate a problem. as you dont indicate when the smoke is seen (idle, under load etc?), it could be possible that the smoke your seeing is just a bit of richness added by your tuner for safety?

ive seen the fuel and ignition map in this car....its definately not fuel related.

its white oil smoke 100%

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3848570
Share on other sites

Was the engine correctly run in?

Idle it for any extended periods of time (more than 30 seconds) and you can bet your arse you will glaze those bores.

If it has been run in correctly, then you shouldn't have to worry about this.

Any chance you could be more specific on when the smoke is seen?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3850314
Share on other sites

Also, do not do as suggested and take it somewhere else and send in the bill to the previous workshop. You will not get one red cent out of them. The law states that a workshop MUST be given the opportunity to rectify the problem at their cost (if it's their fault), otherwise you will have no legal claim to monetary compensation.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3850319
Share on other sites

Mahle Pistons

Eagle Rods

Tomei cams 280

R33 crank grubbed

N1 block

Greddy oil pump

Tomei springs & buckets

Hks to4z

Hypertune Plenum

Sard 700cc inj

so it was just a freshen up then... lol

what about the head specifically, did they replace things like valve stem seals?

has it had a compression test and leak down test since the rebuild?

thats a piss off, after spending that much coin and still having problems.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3851112
Share on other sites

Also, do not do as suggested and take it somewhere else and send in the bill to the previous workshop. You will not get one red cent out of them. The law states that a workshop MUST be given the opportunity to rectify the problem at their cost (if it's their fault), otherwise you will have no legal claim to monetary compensation.

Your correct, however as I understand it the workshop in question has already had to rebuilt it for a second time due to valve train issues after the initial build.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218097-new-engine/#findComment-3851116
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...