Jump to content
SAU Community

Idle Valve And Aac Valve

GreeceS13
 Share

Recommended Posts

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well the AAC/idle control valve controls engine speed (by a an amount) with a PWM modulated inlet leak.

That small amount of adjustment is required to give you a stable idle even though there is load appearing and dissapearing.

A/C, h.beams, stereo etc etc, as well as catching the motors decel after depressing the clutch.

AFAIC, if you don't use one, your idle will fluctuate with engine load at idle. That idle RPM in question will need to be set quiet high too, to prevent stalling when above said "motor decel, clutch press" occurs.

Interestingly, i guess a race car wouldn't need one. Could you let us know, why your thinking you don't need one?

Edited by GeeTR
GreeceS13 Rising Star

GreeceS13

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

My enginneer don't wants to leave it... as the A/C... as my ABS :down::(:ermm:

And for steering he will use electric pump not hydraulic (from a toyota car).

Also he don't wants to put the 044 pumps into the boot...

No idle.. no a/c.. no abs.. and two 044 in my ears!! All theese for every day car?? ;):( :(

I want my car for drag races but also for everyday use... so I think that I need the AAC! But how to obligate him to do it... he wants to make my car for race use only. :wave:

Edited by GreeceS13
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)
My enginneer don't wants to leave it... as the A/C... as my ABS :):P:(

And for steering he will use electric pump not hydraulic (from a toyota car).

Also he don't wants to put the 044 pumps into the boot...

No idle.. no a/c.. no abs.. and two 044 in my ears!! All theese for every day car?? :( :( :(

I want my car for drag races but also for everyday use... so I think that I need the AAC! But how to obligate him to do it... he wants to make my car for race use only. :ermm:

Will be an interesting daily street car with 600hp, no anti lock, no air con, and two 044's mounted in the engine bay :)

Its your car man, your mechanic should be making your dreams and wishs come true, not to have you fund his garage's demo car :D

Edited by GeeTR
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
I want my car for drag races but also for everyday use... so I think that I need the AAC! But how to obligate him to do it... he wants to make my car for race use only. :)

Well sadly, thats your problem and only your problem to deal with

Nothing anyone here can do about YOUR car and YOUR money ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • MBS206
      remote oil cooler hose size, 8,10 or an12?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • nouveau_poor
      Unknown sound similar to BOV on positive boost with partial throttle RB26

      By nouveau_poor · Posted

      Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...