Radiator/fan Efficiency After Fmic Install

[Magic]

You left the neo cover on. There's your problem, removing the cover clears up a heap of space, should allow you to push the piping more into the silicon joiner and then allow you to bring it back a bit from the fans. Either that or a crap fmic kit. Or both.

I've got a GReddy M-Spec FMIC on my neo. I was told by some idiotic part providers that it wouldn't fit on a 25neo, only standard 25.

Sits about 3cm away from the fan, then clamped it to part of the engine so it doesn't budge at all. No fan cutting required. Hard to explain where it's clamped, meaning I dont know what part it's near lol, post a pic when I get home.

Edited May 14, 2008 by Magic

[limpus]

I am one of those unlucky people that had purchased a similar dodgy kit from a clueless sponsor...i also had to cut a fair bit from my fan blades to get it to fit...for my car it was fine and the trimmed blades didn't affect anything...although you have to make sure the blades are trimmed properly...

[colossus]

Guys car is now running real bad:

Idle is steady but you can feel/hear a bad miss both at idle and on a very light throttle. YOu can feel with your hands on the steering wheel that its very rough and just by touching the side of the car at idle you can feel the bad miss.

Also sounds like a metallic tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine interspaced by loud audible click noises which sound electrical in nature.

Last night put in new spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm and did the silicone trick with my factory coilpacks. Made no difference.

Any advice on what to try next - Iv'e double checked the install for lose wires/hoses, was going to clean the AAC this weekend, check the timing and do a test for vaccum leaks.????

[colossus]

Guys car is now running real bad:

Idle is steady but you can feel/hear a bad miss both at idle and on a very light throttle. YOu can feel with your hands on the steering wheel that its very rough and just by touching the side of the car at idle you can feel the bad miss.

Also sounds like a metallic tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine interspaced by loud audible click noises which sound electrical in nature.

Last night put in new spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm and did the silicone trick with my factory coilpacks. Made no difference.

Any advice on what to try next - Iv'e double checked the install for lose wires/hoses, was going to clean the AAC this weekend, check the timing and do a test for vaccum leaks.????

Strangest thing happened last night - car was cold, pulled out of the driveway and accelerated down the road, backed off the accelerator and got a massive Psshhttttt blow off sound. Car is an auto and does not have a blow off valve (apart from the factory item). Is this related in some way? Would the symptoms of a leaking/loose intercooler pipe/s match those of mine described in my last post? I have checked connections and the hose clamps are tight but due to the ill fitting nature of the kit pipes are kind of angled into the silicone joiners - I wonder if air is escaping...so many possibilities.

[SLED]

A leak from an intercooler pipe will cause it to run rough and very rich......is it belting out black smoke?

[colossus]

A leak from an intercooler pipe will cause it to run rough and very rich......is it belting out black smoke?

No black smoke...

Tried just about everything on the weekend:

- Did a boost leak test (the one with the baked bean can): small leak in one vaccum line to the power steering, fixed that but made no difference. My oil dipstick also kept popping out at about 15psi during the test - I thought this was very strange, but after googling apparently fairly common when the rubber seal wears on the dipstick (still wierd that the oil was getting air)...

- So then did a compression test to make sure of above - 160psi exactly across all six cylinders.

- Put on a new fuel filter.

- Checked spark plug gaps and condition (still great).

- Threw the SMIC back on and drove around with it most of Sunday (still ran crappy, missing and engine light and SLIP lights came on.)

- Cleaned AFM with electrical contact cleaner.

- So last night threw FMIC back on...

Car is missing at idle consistently and on light throttle missing badly. If I give it some throttle/boost it seems to run OK. Everytime the engine light/SLIP lights (accompanied by a power loss and 5 cylinders)come on it is when cruising at a steady speed.

My options now are: Splitfires $500, or O2 sensor $200 - Im considering O2 sensor as its only happening at idle and cruise however I'm getting about 12.4L/100km (which is great, I usually get about 14) so O2 sensor should be fine. Think I'll go splitfires?

PS - should also add on the weekend I bought some extra silicone joiners and tidied up the intercooler piping. Now sits much higher and straighter over the top of the radiator. I dont think the stock fan should hit it so going to buy a replacement fan now (I thought $20 from a wrecker....try $150 lol).

Edited May 18, 2008 by colossus