Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a track only R32 GTR and i can tell you it does make a difference. I have an APR adjustable wing and it can either be a help or a hinderence it does take time to get the set up right but it will be a benefit if you take the time to set it up.

I did a test with my engine builder who reckons there crap and do nothing, 2 laps at full angle seen him bouncing down the straights ( very funny ) 2 laps at no angle saw his over steering at every corner again very funny! and 2 laps at normal settings... i believe he now likes rear wings!

A few random thoughts;

The front undertray helps a lot with the cooling, I wouldn't leave them off for that reason alone. They increase the airflow though the intercooler and radiator by creating a partial vacuum under the engine bay. When we ran the R32GTR in Production Car racing it would overheat without the undertray.

"Add downforce" is a bit of a misrepresentation, more like "decrease the lift". Without the front undertray we were getting more lift at the front at anything over 100kph, I could see it on the shock sensors data log. The dogleg at Oran Park was a prime example, the air would get under the front and lift it up, put the undertray back on and that lift stopped.

After spending 2 seasons with the F3 and half a day with Frank Dernie (ex Williams, recently Toyota) I can positively say I don't know anywhere near enough about aerodynamics. But what I am confident in is that modifying the front standard undertray to fit an aftermarket front bar, with say aluminium extrensions, would not be a bad thing.

Cheers

Gary

Thanks for the info Sydneykid.

What undertray have you got in the R32gtr?

It's a Production Car so the standard undertray is it.

The R32GTST is built to the Improved Production regs so it has a flat undertray with a splitter out the front to the profile of the bumper. The regs only allow the undertray back to the front of the wheel arches.

If I had full freedom, I would simply copy a V8Supercar undertray which has a raised centre with votex generators.

Cheers

Gary

thanks for the Gary and others...

under body aero was what i was really keen on as well. I thought it might be more beneficial than putting a spoiler on it...

unfortunately with my front bumper, i had to take the middle factory undertray off :blink: as it had to where to attach to the East Bear front bumper...

But when i was looking at it, from the side, it looks like this...

|

|

|

|

|_____________ (front of car here)

And because the front edge had nothing secure to attach to (besides my bush mechanics)... it did this at high speeds...

|

|

|

|__

.....__

.........__

.............__

.................__ (ROAD contact followed by horrible noise)

And it just seemed like all it would do was act as like a parachute at the front?

As in, wouldn't it just create more drag when the air slams into the upright section??

If i were to get a full undertray, or just to the front of the front wheels, it wouldn't matter then if i didn't have the factory undertray?

Does it matter what a full body undertray is made out of??

someone want to lend me some money for these CF parts? i'll put your like workshop sticker on my car or something :blink:

R34DF02-1-jpeg.jpg

r34rbdf2dr.jpg

i swear they had a front one too, but i can't find it....

R34DF03torituke0002jpeg.jpg

R35 GTR

nissan-gtr-image-gallery-exterior-5.Wallpaper_1024x768.jpg

Sorry to hijack, but can anyone shed some light if the electronic front spoiler on most r32 gtst's do anything?

It pops out at 80km/h and was wondering if it actually helps?

My car also came with a c-west gt wing when first bought it, the rear of the car felt really unstable on the freeways haha, pulled if off and drives much better :blink: It was set on max angle and never bothered to play around with it :blink:

thanks for the Gary and others...

under body aero was what i was really keen on as well. I thought it might be more beneficial than putting a spoiler on it...

unfortunately with my front bumper, i had to take the middle factory undertray off :starwars: as it had to where to attach to the East Bear front bumper...

But when i was looking at it, from the side, it looks like this...

|

|

|

|

|_____________ (front of car here)

And because the front edge had nothing secure to attach to (besides my bush mechanics)... it did this at high speeds...

|

|

|

|__

.....__

.........__

.............__

.................__ (ROAD contact followed by horrible noise)

And it just seemed like all it would do was act as like a parachute at the front?

As in, wouldn't it just create more drag when the air slams into the upright section??

If i were to get a full undertray, or just to the front of the front wheels, it wouldn't matter then if i didn't have the factory undertray?

Does it matter what a full body undertray is made out of??

A properly designed front undertray helps hold the front lip up off the ground. The idea of a front splitter/spoiler is to make the air go either over or around and NOT under.

The problem with underbody aero is that it depends on proximaty to the ground (that's why it's called "ground effect"). On a production style car (in comparison to a formula car) that's very difficult to achieve. A simple example, when you brake the rear goes up and loses the ground effect, hence you get trailing brake oversteer. Conversely when you accelerate the nose lifts, you lose front end ground effect and corner exit understeer can result. Don't think that you can fix this with exagerated spring rates either, a production chassis simply isn't rigid enough, production tyres have flex in the sidewalls and you lose so much mechanical grip (from the high spring rates) that the aero doesn't compensate.

That's why race cars have wings, sure they have some underbody tidying up, but the front spoiler and rear wing do more than 80% of the work from an aerodynamic viewpoint.

If they are available, carbon fibre is the go, whereas custom undertrays are often made out of aluminium sheet, 2 mm, 2.5 mm and 3 mm are common thicknesses depending on the size and load.

Cheers

Gary

I've been thinking about a new under tray for the front as mine was butchered in japan

Japanese: http://www.silkroad-jp.com/section/dif.html

translated: http://translate.google.com.au/translate?u...en&ie=UTF-8

Silkroad seem to make a nice unit.

and looking at top secret rear diffuser also. but i think they are more looking nice than anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...