Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, that's not how the dB system works.

it's not a linear measure, an increase of 3dB represents a doubling of sound energy - eg 2x100dB cars doesn't equal 200dB, they'll make 103dB.

so geraus, 87.9 is a comfortable pass.

thanks for the clarification.

Just use this change to get a proper quiet/flowing exhaust made

spending money on a "fix" IMO is dead money.

Sell the exhaust you have, put that (and the "fix" money) towards the new quiet one and never have a problem again.

No swapping etc. Time is money both literally and laterally in fuel cost and time off work, swapping etc.

Over the course of 2-3-4-5-6 EPA's you'll soon see that doing it when you should have was cheaper.

I used to do the whole swap the exhaust thing. End of the day its a pain in the arse after a while :)

i agree; but is there a manufactured exhaust out there on the market (say, mid and rear mufflers only) which has great flow and very little restriction that stays under the 90dB limit? shoving a heap of mufflers in an exhaust will only kill performance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219028-dam-epa/page/2/#findComment-3869217
Share on other sites

How much am i looking at to get a 3.5" made with 2 mufflers? or how much did u pay?.. The Lads at Nisswreck say they can fix me up with a Stock ECU and airbox. (thnx for offer R34NRG). so that is sorted. So its just the Plumback i gotta get. might buy Dezz's one, if still for sale.

thnx again blokes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219028-dam-epa/page/2/#findComment-3874044
Share on other sites

Hey guys

Sorry to hijack but i will be going for a full test in the next week or so.

I have changed everything to standard form except for my dr Drift remap ECU and r33 turbo.

Will they pick up on this or make me change these two mods?

Cheers Adrian...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219028-dam-epa/page/2/#findComment-3878506
Share on other sites

Get this;

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/product...t=27&page=1

and this;

http://xforce.com.au.tmp.anchor.net.au/cars/view_car/29

I can vouch for the muffler, the car sounds quieter than my girlfriend's Corolla when the valve is closed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219028-dam-epa/page/2/#findComment-3878578
Share on other sites

Hey gazzilla... just a thought... if you did want to keep your pfc ecu in there (without the commander) why not just unscrew the front of it if you can? and replace with a standard plate... I have a spare r33 ecu lying around and if you want to borrow the front plate feel free... they wouldn't know serial numbers/etc would they?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219028-dam-epa/page/2/#findComment-3879258
Share on other sites

Get this;

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/product...t=27&page=1

and this;

http://xforce.com.au.tmp.anchor.net.au/cars/view_car/29

I can vouch for the muffler, the car sounds quieter than my girlfriend's Corolla when the valve is closed.

Other then the fact both of those are illegal i cant see any reason not to fit them...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219028-dam-epa/page/2/#findComment-3879446
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
hey i just got my EPA about 2motnsh ago! i had a pod filter, turbo back 3inch exhaust greddy catback with a greddy 3'inch dump pipe and a 3inch high flow... I took off my PE II Extreme and chucked on my OEM catback to the greddy trust dump pipe and JUst passed! 87.9 . So if i was u dude, chuck back on the catback!

When i had to present my r33 to EPA, i put back the standard catback, but left my high flow cat, aftermarket dump and front pipe on, and it made 86db. So u have no cahnce

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219028-dam-epa/page/2/#findComment-3911584
Share on other sites

quite a few of us here got done lol.. when igot done i had microtech ltx12s 550c inj ,3 1/2 turbo back exaust. ext w/gate. high mount gt35r turbo etc. put it all back to stock. the guy at mcleods sits ur car on the spot revvs it up and down and while doin this plugs in his own type of data logger into a lume in ur car which is located underneath the dash under the steering column which gives out readings so they can tell if its facory they go by factory specs give or take 5 % up or down etc. but theyre not all that bad just doing there job...

When i had to present my r33 to EPA, i put back the standard catback, but left my high flow cat, aftermarket dump and front pipe on, and it made 86db. So u have no cahnce
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219028-dam-epa/page/2/#findComment-3915599
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...