Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have luckily come accross some money and was wonderin what mods i should spend it on.

Car - R33 Gts-t...."pretty rare these days"

Mods Already - GReddy Air Filter, Heavy Duty Clutch....*sigh*..i know dont laugh!

What i was thinkin..

1. JJr Turbo back exhaust w/ split dump $899.00 from Just Jap

2. Stealth FMIC $550.00 from Just Jap

3. Boost it to 10 Psi w/ Turbotech boost controller $30 from E-bay

4. Lowered with King Springs and shocks 35mm $650 from local suspension shop

5. CAI $190 from JS auto imports

6. Tune & Labour $leftover!! :P

Total - $2319

Also if I can save up for this week instaed of going out Front and Rear Strut braces.

Over all I want a nice lil package utilising both power and handling!

Would like to hear your thoughts.

Any other mods, seen cheaper, etc etc...all appreciated!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/
Share on other sites

:P ..eeek...

how much?..what bout a re-map?

or Apexi Safc???

how much u asking for NYTSKY?

ask yourself how much power do you want in the end? or wat you want your car to do

and do your mods according to that

PFCs go for around 1500 these days...

if your going the power root, i highly recommend a FMIC + the turbo back exhaust MINIMUM

Edited by R34NRG
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3863722
Share on other sites

ask yourself how much power do you want in the end? or wat you want your car to do

and do your mods according to that

PFCs go for around 1500 these days...

if your going the power root, i highly recommend a FMIC + the turbo back exhaust MINIMUM

Pretty much what ive set above is all i want to do.

Wanna Start saving for a house...so would a Power FC be REALLY that beneficial!

Is it possible to tune with the standard computer?

What about regapping my spark plugs from 1.1mm to .08mm to overcome the flatspot?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3863747
Share on other sites

plug and play??

by this u mean it has tuned settings with the respective mods i have, or will i have to re-tune it!

It will need to be retuned mate,even if i had the same mods as you it would still be smart to have it retuned.

But it does have a base map in it that will get you around until you get it tuned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3863881
Share on other sites

Front and rear swaybars - $550

turbo back exhaust - $500

PowerFC - NYTSKY is selling one for $1250

Turbotech boost controller - $30

FMIC - $500

Save the rest + a bit extra for a tune.

At about 12psi you should come close to 200 rwkw

Fit the parts yourself and learn something about your car

Don't just buy lowered springs, you will flog out your stock struts in no time and the ride will be shit anyway. The swaybars will make a huge difference to handling and you will retain some ride quality.

My 2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3863950
Share on other sites

If what you have listed is as far as you are going to take your car, I suggest the following;

Swaybars, pineapples, adjustable bushes (camber & caster), & hicas lock bar $1k

Brake pads and braided lines $400

R34 Gtt side mount intercooler $150

Turbotech boost controller $30

Turboback exhaust (I would go for a custom or second hand jap) $1k

Toshi ECU remap $400

All up $2980

Bang for bucks in terms of handling, braking and grunt.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3866585
Share on other sites

If what you have listed is as far as you are going to take your car, I suggest the following;

Swaybars, pineapples, adjustable bushes (camber & caster), & hicas lock bar $1k

Brake pads and braided lines $400

R34 Gtt side mount intercooler $150

Turbotech boost controller $30

Turboback exhaust (I would go for a custom or second hand jap) $1k

Toshi ECU remap $400

All up $2980

Bang for bucks in terms of handling, braking and grunt.

Toshi ECU remap?

never heard of that...any more info on that please..thanks in advance..

Like to also say thanks to everybody that has contributed ideas for this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3866917
Share on other sites

gt3076r - 1620

powerfc - 1250

gtr fmic - 250

get dump to suit your exhaust: 300

drop a skid...

abliet over budjet haha

on stock injectors and fuel pump... riiiiiight...

what tuitahi said is right on the money...

esp the camber and pineapples

but i wouldn't bother with the braided lines and would use the $400 for fmic

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3867702
Share on other sites

if ure getting an fmic.... save money on the CAI and make it yourself. it will cost u 20 bux if u buy some PVC pipes from bunnings (u can put it through the standard cooler holes) im sure it wont b as good as actually buying one..but it will be very close and with the money saved u can buy a strut bar or some petrol... also if those are all the mods that ure going to do..u might want to look into getting a jaycar digital fuel adjuster. works like the SAFC but it will only cost u like 200$ with the tune (look it up)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3867804
Share on other sites

cooler 550

exhaust 500 (second hand)

pfc (1250)

gtr injectors (200-300)

boost (free)

u dont really need cai just get a pod (second hand ones are always around in the for sale section) and like above make a cai for real cheap these days

then u have enough for a good tune and some petty

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3869576
Share on other sites

JJR Stainless Dump/Front Pipe - $250

XForce Stainless Hi-Flow Cat - $180

Fuel Pump - $160

SAFC Neo - $400

Trust FMIC - $620

Apexi Pod - $80

Total: $1690

or instead of SAFC Neo you could get a Power FC

Power FC - $1250

Total: $2540

If I had the cash this is what i would buy! :spank:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3870081
Share on other sites

JJR Full Exhaust (includes dump/front, stainless cat and cat back) $899

PFC $ 1250

Trust Intercooler Kit $664

Turbotech Boost Controller $30

PFC Tune ~$400

Total $3243 (Just a little bit over)

OR you could cancel out the power fc and get yourself some nice shocks, spring and swaybars.

BUT if i were you and you were never going to go any further with engine mods I wouldnt worry too much about a pfc because i dont think the power gains

will be huge. You will probably gain about 20kw and a better power curve but i dont think it will be a huge difference in noticeable power. You will get much more

enjoyment out of a few good suspension mods.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219075-yay3000all-mine/#findComment-3870133
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...