Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just read Sydneykid saying in another thread that the gears on the RB25 and 26 box seem to be exactly the same strength-wise, just with different ratios. So that's $1000 extra just to change the ratios, doesn't look too appealing anymore :D On the plus side, the RB25 box is stronger than I first thought :(

I think I will need more advice from a gearbox specialist before I take the box out, just to find out what parts exactly I will need to replace and how much they will cost. And gearbox shops wanting to do the work themselves, probably aren't going to be too helpful :)

But I will definitely do a post up about it if/when I do drop the box myself.

Seeing that the RB25 box is fairly common and would likely be put through a fair bit of punishment on tuned cars, aren't there strengthened synchros available? Reason being if you're going to spend the x-dollars on rebuilding the bugger you'd want it to last more than another 50,000k's. And again, i'm another skyline owner with stuffed 1-2 and 2-3 synchros... (they're not so much stuffed that they crunch, but they bauk quite badly when cold and it doesn't go away completely when warm) even redline isn't really enough

What is designed different that the R32 RB20DET box's don't crunch or you don't hear about them crunching as much?!?

I've done many a gearbox removals/installs/conversions in a pit.

Dropped an auto once when removing it and got auto trans fluid from head to toe and it was hanging with full weight by the kick down cable.. Couldn't believe it held actually.

The reason I dropped it is I forgot to remove the kick down cable, I realised this once I already had the box away from the motor. I then tried to put it back in when a little bit of trans fluid dribbled out hand slipped gearbox smacked me in the head and fell. Auto trans fluid then poored out of the torque converter. :)

Gearbox removals = lots of stress. Unless you have a hoist and a gearbox jack that jacks the gearbox up the the height of the car and you wiggle it in. No weight, no strain easy.... :)

I wouldn't even attempt it on car ramps. The tunnel hugs the gearbox tighter than you would imagine.

I fitted a 5 speed to my old VL NA 3ltr. I had to drop the engine mounts out just to get the thing hooked up. I then broke a couple of exhaust manifold studs in the process. Made it go better compared to the Auto, so it was worth it :D

A hoist with a gearbox jack is nothing compared to working in a shoulder width pit.

Two people in there trying to fit a gearbox in to a tunnel that has been press fitted around the gearbox.. Well thats what it felt like with the VL any how. ;)

Yer it is a job that definately sucks though.

Hey there JimX, its probably not what you want to hear, but Heavyweight Shockproof wasnt really primarily designed to give you good shifting. Its bloody thick. Redline's MTL/MT90 are the fluids which help boxes with dead synchros.

I reckon you should give the MTL a shot before you pull the box out. And if it doesnt make enough difference to convince you not to pull the box, at least you can drain the oil and use it again when you get your box rebuilt!!!

I have driven dozens of r33's with various km's on the clock while i was searching for my r33 over an eight month period.

I noticed that all had similar shift problems, although some were more obvious than others. I came to accept that either the japs really hammered their gearboxes in japan and therefore the gearboxes deteriated prematurely or the skyline boxes are one of their weakness'.

After puchasing my r33 i immediately changed the oil to the forum recomended VMX80. I am very glad i did as the oil that came out of the box looked very gluggy and to my suprise was under 3 litres.

4 litres of VMX80 went in, and sure enough did help a lot, but learning to drive the skyline, that is changing gears at the right revs, having the seat at the right distance to the pedals and getting the feel to where each gear was the key to smoother changes.

I must say i am not a beginner manual driver, nor am i a newcomer to turbo and modified cars, but it took a while getting used to the skyline engine/gearbox combination.

My next step is to use the redline stuff as most of you have mentioned, and perhaps bleeding the clutch to make sure no air or water is present in the system.

What i still cannot comprehend is though, regardless of the ambient and engine temperatures the gear changes can be very inconsistent; i.e sometimes very smooth other times a bit rough.

I just wanted to share my experiences in the hope that it may help regarding this issue.

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...