Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my skyline seems to have developed some nasty rattles;

on smooth road its awesome, with less road noise from the tyres than my old mirage (not bad considering the tyres are soo much larger on the skyline)

anyway, the rattles seem to be getting worse on rough roads and they are driving me mental

where would be a good place to take the skyline to get rattles investigated?

id be tempted to have a go myself at taking apart door trims and what not, but id hate to get things appart and then not be able to put them back together.

anybody got any suggestions for me?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/
Share on other sites

and just to add to the annoyance my climate control fan has started making a god awful noise even at low speeds

these are all minor annoyances when compared with how much enjoyment i get from my car, but its driving me crazy all the same

it sounds like there is something stuck in the fan and it flicks it on each revolution

hopefully a leaf or something has got stuck in there and it will be broken down eventually;

anybody know how to get to the fan/climate control stuff?

it sounds like its above the passengers feet under the glovebox . . .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/#findComment-467483
Share on other sites

oh and the rattles are definately in the front doors

ive had some stereo work done and they seem worse since then

ive had the stereo mob look at it a couple of times, they say they have secured everything they did

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/#findComment-467484
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Spooks_Skyline

and just to add to the annoyance my climate control fan has started making a god awful noise even at low speeds

these are all minor annoyances when compared with how much enjoyment i get from my car, but its driving me crazy all the same

it sounds like there is something stuck in the fan and it flicks it on each revolution

hopefully a leaf or something has got stuck in there and it will be broken down eventually;

anybody know how to get to the fan/climate control stuff?

it sounds like its above the passengers feet under the glovebox . . .

I had exactly the same problem about 1 week ago. It seems to have gone now though :uh-huh:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/#findComment-467536
Share on other sites

Ah, rattles. Do we need any more proof that our cars are really Japanese Commodores? :)

Seriously though, rattles can be an indication that the car's been involved in an accident. Getting hit can loosen up joins and welds and cause things to shake around a bit. The worst rattles to get rid of are in the dash. I had one really annoying rattle in my dash of my previous car (Commodore) which I could never locate.

If the rattle seems to be coming from the door trims I would spend a Saturday morning taking the trim off and investigating, it's a lot easier than pulling the whole dash out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/#findComment-467824
Share on other sites

in the door trims .. this is what i found to be most probable ...

1. if the speakers have not been put in tightly.

2. theres this little handle thing that the door trim sits on, this usually goes loose after a while, haven't figured out a way to keep it perfectly tight ... i might try putting some tape between the handle and the inner panel. even tape the whole handle thing to add a bit more weight to it as if you're sound deadening it .

3. when u remove the door trim u will see some of the plastic screw holder thingies will be pretty much farked ... go out and buy some new ones from the nissan dealer ... costs about 30 cents or so each ... replace the farked ones or the half farked ones with the newer ones.

4. if ur insane then go out and buy some sound deadener, i havne't done this as yet as i'm pretty lazy, but will do so soon.

let me know how u go.

i've got this annoying sqeakin coming out of where the stereo is, i'm pretty sure its the emty din comparment since i broke the spring mechanism and it doesn't close by itself properly, so i'm going to replace that soon.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/#findComment-468085
Share on other sites

hmm ive got rattles and junk all over the place - im just used to them now cos i drive on such tishhouse roads every day - it sux.

one thing i did do, but it'll add a bit of weight to the car is go down to a clark rubber and get some of their heat insulation/underblanket/think woven wool sound deadening stuff they have there. it wasn't too expensive and i lined the two front doors, beside the rear passengers and under and behind the rear passengers. seeems to have helped the road noise a bit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/#findComment-469288
Share on other sites

yes after a semi accident (no damage) my window bolts came loose and it rattle crazy as well as CLUNK, so i took the trim off and fixed it voila ;) perfect, but the door trim rattles a bit there is one screw missing and that is the problem im sure as well as those broken clips, parcel tray rattles crazy like a cricket with the SUB on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/#findComment-469502
Share on other sites

Originally posted by nismoman18

yes after a semi accident (no damage) my window bolts came loose and it rattle crazy as well as CLUNK, so i took the trim off and fixed it voila :D perfect, but the door trim rattles a bit there is one screw missing and that is the problem im sure as well as those broken clips, parcel tray rattles crazy like a cricket with the SUB on

My parcel shelf rattles like a cricket with the sub on too....this is how to fix it, as discovered by a friend in his car...punch the parcel shelf as hard as possible :) it will stay away for at least a few hours of the sub being used.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/21928-rattling/#findComment-473013
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...