Jump to content
SAU Community

Bridgestone Adrenaline

STATUS
 Share

Recommended Posts

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

I usually use TOYO's but customers specified these.

Just want to find out others experiences, these things stick pretty well but on two of my high hp customer cars 270+rwkw we are experiencing tearing :spank: any one else finding the same?

post-34927-1210861582_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1210861615_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1210861672_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219401-bridgestone-adrenaline/
Share on other sites
Omurru Veteran

Omurru

Posted
Posted

Interesting, never seen this on car tyres before. Big airplane tyres get it all the time, it's called chevron tearing or "chevroning". Sometimes the tears appear in little ^^^^ shapes other times they are just straight. I think from memory it's cause by the initial touchdown point before the antiskid has a chance to kick in. Unless the tyre starts loosing chunks of rubber or the tears are big you don't have to worry about it. With airplanes that it is :D

Would be interested to know what caused it on car tyres though, the only thing I can think of is the rubber is very soft and the car perhaps suffers from axle tramp...:w00t:

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted

From the pictures that you have posted it doesnt look to me like "tearing", what it looks like is almost certainly a tread join separation.

With almost all UHP tyres the tread is joined on to the casing after the casing is put together, they're not one piece, when the tread is moulded on to the casing the manufacturer almost always deliberately overlaps the tread join to reduce the chance of seperation.

It looks like your tyres are "feathering" at the overlap point where the tread has been moulded.

This usually happens when the tyre has suffered from excess heat build up for an extended period (such as drift or track racing).

From my experience you should be able to wear the tyres down to the belts without the tread letting go (if they are built well) because where it is lifting is only the overlap point, the actual tread join would be further around the tyre underneath the top layer of tread.

If you are worried about it you should contact the manufacturer or wholesale distributor though.

I hope this helps :)

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
  • Author
Posted
From the pictures that you have posted it doesnt look to me like "tearing", what it looks like is almost certainly a tread join separation.

With almost all UHP tyres the tread is joined on to the casing after the casing is put together, they're not one piece, when the tread is moulded on to the casing the manufacturer almost always deliberately overlaps the tread join to reduce the chance of seperation.

It looks like your tyres are "feathering" at the overlap point where the tread has been moulded.

This usually happens when the tyre has suffered from excess heat build up for an extended period (such as drift or track racing).

From my experience you should be able to wear the tyres down to the belts without the tread letting go (if they are built well) because where it is lifting is only the overlap point, the actual tread join would be further around the tyre underneath the top layer of tread.

If you are worried about it you should contact the manufacturer or wholesale distributor though.

I hope this helps :P

im sure it is moulding issue causing the tearing / separation and have mentioned this to the dealer, unfortunatley they all (dealers) at this stage give blank looks.... tyre re-sellers not experts :rofl: i will send through some pics to B/S HO.

as both cars see ZERO drift or any real excessive abuse that other UHP tyres havent been able to handle.. Not real impressed with them so far.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

I was planning on buying some 255 Adrenalin's soon, this aint good news :) Other then the tearing issue (which could be a bad batch or something i suppose), how are your customers and you finding the tyres? Good grip? Last a while? Any info would be great Trent, thanks.

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted
im sure it is moulding issue causing the tearing / separation and have mentioned this to the dealer, unfortunatley they all (dealers) at this stage give blank looks.... tyre re-sellers not experts :rofl: i will send through some pics to B/S HO.

as both cars see ZERO drift or any real excessive abuse that other UHP tyres havent been able to handle.. Not real impressed with them so far.

Most tyre retailers wouldnt see this issue very often as it is not all that common in well made UHP tyres, of course Bridgestone are quite well known for their high quality standards. You are best off sending the photos in an e-mail to the importer / distributor who can then contact Bridgestone, they might be able to offer a manufacturers warranty ( I know we normally would ).

But as it is almost impossible to tell whether the tyres have been used in a motorsport application you may not get anything back.

Like I said, you will probably be able to run the tyres right down to the casing without them delaminating, as the actual tread join would still be intact, but the choice is yours. :P

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted
hey your sig looks like our old skyline, is it from adelaide?

I bought it in Sydney from a private seller, I dont know if he was the first owner in Aus though...

It was stock standard when I got it except for the GTR bumper, grille and bonnet lip, cat back exhaust and Volk wheels.

Equinox Rising Star

Equinox

Posted
Posted (edited)

OMG

I have that on one of my rear RE001s. I couldn't work out what it was! Looks exactly the same. 200rwkw S14 which sees a lot of mountain passes but I've never drifted on these RE001s. I'll try and get a picture of it tomorrow.

Anyone else? Should I take the tyre(s) back to Bridgestone and get them replaced? The one with the tear is basically new.

Edited by Equinox
Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted
OMG

I have that on one of my rear RE001s. I couldn't work out what it was! Looks exactly the same. 200rwkw S14 which sees a lot of mountain passes but I've never drifted on these RE001s. I'll try and get a picture of it tomorrow.

Anyone else? Should I take the tyre(s) back to Bridgestone and get them replaced? The one with the tear is basically new.

Its not a tear... Refer previous posts.

If you are concerned about it, take it back to the shop where you bought it and show them... If they cant help, call the wholesale distributor directly and explain it.

You may be able to get a manufacturers warranty - No promises though, I dont know what Bridgestone's policies are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...