Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i'm taking the car to the mech tomorrow morning. but just need some ideas quick

Took off to go to work bout 6pm, car is still warm as i only got home at 5.30pm, so no need to warm up the car

come out of my driveway, probably hitting 3000rpm ish, car goes POOOOP, i was like wtf. Then power starts cutting out(lights start dimming and going bright again), eventually the car stablises, idles at 1000rpm, then alll of a sudden the revs build up slowly.....from 1000rpm to 5000rpm. so i turn off the car

so i opened the bonnet to make sure my accelerator cable wasn't caught. everything looks fine.

turn the car on, car revs slowly up to 4000rpm again~!!!

then i turn it off, stepped on the throttle again.

and turned the car on again, this time it idled properly. at 800rpm ish.

so i put the car back in the garage, and go to work as i'm alrdy late.

come back 4hrs later

turn on the car, idles properly, so i tried to back it out. i reversed about 5metres, car starts acting weir again. i let it idle, and it idles hell rough with revs jumping up and down ( 800-1000rpm). and the car sounds like a rex

so i wait for 2 mins witht he car on, then the car idles normal again.

tried to take it for a drive. the car feels hell weird, no power at all. so i tried to slowly boost it..but NO boost..wtf..i can hear the turbo spinning making a weird sound...

then the car starts losing power again. it struggles to idles. then stallls...wtf

i can still turn the car on, but idles hell weird. doesnt have power at all and doesnt make any boost

so any suggestions? please, i need to know whats wrong lol. or i cant sleep tonight

coilpack? turbo? cylinder?

and btw lately when i take off slowly i can hear a very light 'hummming' noise from the engine, but never took notice of it

so any suggestions plz/??

cheers

steve

sorry bout the long post, and it probably doesnt make sense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219403-need-help-quick/
Share on other sites

Wont be a cooler pipe,car wont rev at all if it was.

Do you have a PFC with hand controller? If you do check out the sensors to see if any are blacked out.

Your tuner will be able to diagnose it though.

Good luck with it all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219403-need-help-quick/#findComment-3870458
Share on other sites

Sounds like you have shit a turbo. Comp wheel comes off, fragments move through the intake, get caught in the t/body and hold it open. Then, said fragments move further in to the engine and cause more havoc and damage as the engine tries to digest them.

Might not be your problem but is still likely and no-one has suggested it yet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219403-need-help-quick/#findComment-3872385
Share on other sites

sounds like it is a turbo problem, if it was a cooler pipe it probably wouldnt hold idle, you have to have your foot on a bit to keep it alive.

start by openig the bonnet and pumping the accelerator and watch the throttle to see if its moving smoothly/correctly. since you mention it sounds like a rex, i assume its not firing properly and you are looking at either fouled/damaged plugs or inaccurate fueling. check all the wiring from your safc to the stock ecu harness, if you've damaged or d/c one its an interesting cause to the problem. could always remove the safc for troubleshooting anyway.

because it revs out, we can assume that its not in too bad a shape or it would have detonated. i would say the stock ecu is doing its best not to have the engine shit itself one way or another.

i would suggest check all the pipes tho, as its the easiest to fix, then im afraid you may have to dig your way in to the turbo and check it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219403-need-help-quick/#findComment-3872554
Share on other sites

yeh found out it's the turbo that's gone. i'm gonna have to drive it like twice a week for the next month before i can get a new turbo

am i surpose to remove the dump pipe and and pipe from the front of the turbo to make sure the blades and seal arent just sitting there?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219403-need-help-quick/#findComment-3872821
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...