Jump to content
SAU Community

Street Legal Drag Radials

R34NRG
 Share

Recommended Posts

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted

Superior to what?

I'm a big fan of the Falken RT615s. Reasonable price, very streetable, and amazing amounts of grip. I know a couple of Federal 595RS drivers who say the same thing about those tyres.

You can now get Bridgestone Potenza RE-01Rs (standard fitment on the R34 Z-Tune if you didn't tick the R-Comp option) from Australian suppliers, and they're widely acknowledged as some of the best S-Comp tyres available.

But these are more cornering, rather than drag, radials so the sidewalls may be a lot stiffer than what you want.

R34NRG Grand Master

R34NRG

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh i know of the falken and the potenzas, but if you put em up against a drag radial they seem like absolute shit.

i just want something that will give me alot of traction, being close to 400rwkw i need it badly.

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
yeh i know of the falken and the potenzas, but if you put em up against a drag radial they seem like absolute shit.

i just want something that will give me alot of traction, being close to 400rwkw i need it badly.

The tyres you seek are mickey thompson et street radials. They are effectively a drag slick with a slightly stiffer sidewall. I drive to the track and back on mine but take them off again for general driving. With the sidewall softer than conventional high performance tyres the car rolls around a bit on them. Great for straight line work tho.

CR34M Community Regular

CR34M

Posted
Posted

my mate, has a set of mickey's on the rear end of his Vy that hes taking to the Calder Naitonals on the 30th...hes used em on the road before...and by jesus...those things grip, hes pushing roughly 550BHP out of his stock lookin Vy and whenever anyone even Gtr's alike come for a run against him on the street they get blow away by the tremendous traction he can pull with those suckers!

P.s. If theres a slight once of rain on the ground good luck getting anywhere cept round a nice clean pole.

and going a bit off topic i thought you were selling your 34 man? or is this a new one??? :P

but by all means Mickey Thompsons are the way to go for any straight line events.

Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted

Yes.

Mickey Thomspon ET Streets.

Limiter launch from my V8 5 ltr commie drop the clutch and they wouldnt spin, they actually killed the cars revs and made it bog.

Unbelievable grip. Mine cost near enough to 600 bucks for two, 235/50/15s. Keep an eye out on ebay, there was a batch not long ago that had the MT print stuffed, so they were clearing them for cheap as chips

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...