Jump to content
SAU Community

Why Go From A 20 To 25


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I said..

Just a few assumptions.

you spent about $3K on getting an RB20 in to your VL.

you then spent about $2K in getting exhaust, filter, FMIC, boost etc.

and if I remember, you've run a string of mid 14's.

correct?

You said.

my car was non turbo before and i blew my rb30de up n i brought a calais with a rb20 for dirt cheap so thats how it ended up in there

i think uve mixed me up with some1 else gtst lol

I believe I didn't mix you up with anyone else..

I did however give you a 1 second better time on your 1/4

Your thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ms-t199566.html

Your post in that thread.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3557915

Guest trikdoutvl

STOLEN S15 LOL hell no im not selling my vl.... i love my car and its a 1 of a kind.. id like a skyline as a second daily driver car but caint afford it :)

GTST

LOL uve completely lost me with ur copy n pasting of old threads n wat not LOL...... wat are ya trying to say man lol.. ill get my part clear LOL

heres the story of why i brought a rb20

MY rb30 na motor had a bottom end knock was stuffed

brought a vl calias wit the 20 in it with a blown diff for dirt cheap

put the 20 in my white vl i got now already had cooler and exhaust

put the f*kd 30 (still ran) in the calais and sold the calais for a decent amount

so i pretty much got a rb20 motor nearly for free only cost me to get it installed

there was no way i could have gone 25 for anywhere near wat it cost to go 20 cause i would have had to buy a half cut n made no money back on it....

i havent even spent 5 cents makeing the motor go faster except for getting a hi flow cat cause mine was blocked

Rb20's are strong as f**k on standard internals, CHEAP and reliable. You do need to rev them a bit to make power but its not too bad. I still love mine.. Roys car is a good example, good power on a big turbo and not too much lag.

Of course the Rb25 is naturally a better motor (how couldn't be with an extra 500cc?) But they are still fairly expensive($2000+), not to mention if you put one in a R32 you will need to upgrade to a rb25 box (another $1500) as it will destroy the RB20 box with ease. Theres also the hassles with the driveshaft, speedo sensor and sorting out the wiring and gearbox mount.

My opinion - If I had the cash I'd love a RB25.. but I'd rather spend it elsewhere on the car, so I'm happy with my little RB20 which sees limiter daily and doesn't complain! - Don't forget it sounds f**king awesome doing it :)

Guest trikdoutvl

IVE BROKEN 3 RB30DE'S

2 IN VLS

1 IN R31 SKYLINE

ALSO I USED TO OWN A VLT WITH A RB30ET JUST WITH A HI FLOW MADE 270HP WAS COOL BUT MEH ITS STILL A RB30 WENT HARD BUT IN THE SOUND DEPARTMENT THE 20 SOUNDS MUCH NICERS TO ME 25 SOUNDED SIK AS WELL DOESNTT REALLY SOUND THE SAME AS THE 20 THO.,,,, CAN MOST OF USES PIK THE DIFFERENCE IN SOUND BETWEEN THE 20 N 25???

GTST

LOL uve completely lost me with ur copy n pasting of old threads n wat not LOL...... wat are ya trying to say man lol.. ill get my part clear LOL

heres the story of why i brought a rb20

MY rb30 na motor had a bottom end knock was stuffed

brought a vl calias wit the 20 in it with a blown diff for dirt cheap

put the 20 in my white vl i got now already had cooler and exhaust

put the f*kd 30 (still ran) in the calais and sold the calais for a decent amount

so i pretty much got a rb20 motor nearly for free only cost me to get it installed

there was no way i could have gone 25 for anywhere near wat it cost to go 20 cause i would have had to buy a half cut n made no money back on it....

i havent even spent 5 cents makeing the motor go faster except for getting a hi flow cat cause mine was blocked

what's to be lost about.

your old thread says that you spent $5K and are now running 15.7 on the quarter at best.

it also keeps asking if we think the video sounds good.

you hadn't mentioned that you sold all the other bits off and made your money back.

what I was saying was that the $5K you initially spent to buy the other VL, transfer the 2 motors over etc etc only to run a 15.7, you could have gone MUCH MUCH faster for that $5K by rebuilding an RB30e and adding a turbo or doing a budget RB30/25.

Guest trikdoutvl

then i would have had nothing to sell to get my money back,,,,,, goin the 20 was the cheapest way of going turbo,,, aint a millionare n i dont have the time to f*k around building a half breed motor.... car was only off the road for a few days to 20 it........ dissicusion pretty much passed cause the 25 vl is sold anyways

i just watched a vl rb20 run a 12.5 1/4.... im in love lol

is this thread a joke....... why put a 20 in a vl......i love all rb's but dude a 2 litre in a heavy commonwhore is madness.

james????

dude, are you awake, those 1987 holden commodores are lighter than a r32 nissan skyline,

my question is why go 25 when for 5 g you could go rb26dett?

Edited by nizmonut

ENOUGH SAID!!!!11!!!!11111!!!!!!!!!

YOMFGWTFBBQ

street skids are sick!!!!111!!11ty

I Idol this guy so much.....wait..no :D

My question...Why buy a VL in the 1st place...worst Holden ever built (diesel Gemini Included)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...