Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people

decided i'm going to go with a remap for my 34, power fc is too expensive. (2 options for this, just deciding who at the moment)

Current mods

- Full 3" turbo back exhaust with hi-flow cat

- turbotech boost controller, around 10psi i think

I will be doing some sort of intake mod, thinking hi-flow panel filter as i can keep the stock airbox. Not sure if a pod is better, but i don't see the benefit of having a pod sitting out in the engine bay sucking in hot air.

I would like to do some sort of CAI as well, but at least a hi-flow panel filter, or something to keep the stock box.

What i don't know is if i need is a FMIC?

These look great IMO from just jap

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...er-t209304.html

And if i wanted around 200rkw's (should be obtainable), i know the SMIC is capable of this, but is a FMIC necessary?

The car will be tracked a little, and a few places have said that in summer, you'd notice a FMIC would make a big difference.

So yeah, FMIC or just stick with the SMIC? And if i go for a FMIC, would the just jap one to the trick? I like the idea of keeping a stock looking engine

cheers,

daniel

+1 for FMIC then :laugh:

thanks for the pm the other day as well Dan :D

You think the Just Jap item should sort those problems out ok?

Hey mate,

your smic will hold up to 200rkw.

but the Just jap coolers are great, think you can pick a kit up for $399 now, free up the air flow is the best option at this stage,

as for remapping your computer, it will get expensive once you start modding your car, unless you gonna keep everything how it is

after remapping.

I will be doing some sort of intake mod, thinking hi-flow panel filter as i can keep the stock airbox. Not sure if a pod is better, but i don't see the benefit of having a pod sitting out in the engine bay sucking in hot air.

I would like to do some sort of CAI as well, but at least a hi-flow panel filter, or something to keep the stock box.

I just put on a FMIC and the stock snorkel for the airbox does not fit back on as the FMIC piping is in the way. THis is something to keep in mind as my stock airbox now just sucks hot air just like a pod. Decision now is wether to a CAI to the stock airbox or to a boxed pod as the FMIC install leaves a hole in the guard which goes to the front bumper where the SMIC piping used to run.

I just put on a FMIC and the stock snorkel for the airbox does not fit back on as the FMIC piping is in the way. THis is something to keep in mind as my stock airbox now just sucks hot air just like a pod. Decision now is wether to a CAI to the stock airbox or to a boxed pod as the FMIC install leaves a hole in the guard which goes to the front bumper where the SMIC piping used to run.

I cut out a section of my snorkel to fit with the new piping I started with a small partition and kept cutting more out until it all fit, although admittedly as I have a pod and partition box a lot of airflow would come from the hole left by the stock i/c piping.

I'm soon planning on making a second air intake using piping running from the frontbar to the hole using THIS thread for inspiration

post-29425-1211463064_thumb.jpg

painted my fmic and piping in black

Edited by Yo-Yo

I have an R34 that had 205rwkw with the factory SMIC. The R34 ones are supposed to be good up to around 200rwkw, but I was finding it was having bad heat soak issues when i was stuck in traffic or on hot days, causing the engine to ping pretty bad. I probably could have gotten it re-tuned to help stop this, but instead I fitted an ARC turnflow FMIC. Problem solved! I think its worth doing when you are getting close to 200rwkw's on R34's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...