Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Everlast are just too busy this week and Saturday to do my intercooler piping for me. :D

Can anyone recommend anyone else around the Regency Park/City area who could do the job? Its not too hard, just need piping done from fmic (2.5") to go down (2.25") to the existing pipework from the removed smic on my Stag.

:starwars:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219871-intercooler-piping/
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.

I'm also considering doing the job myself. I've got my own MIG and I've fabbed piping before for my other projects ... I was just hoping to make it someone elses problem. But I'm keen to try it myself again :D

Might visit Aussie Discount Mufflers for the bends only.

I'll dummy the intercooler in place and if it looks like more trouble than what I want to deal with I'll then consider the above mentioned places.

:w00t:

Thanks guys.

I'll dummy the intercooler in place and if it looks like more trouble than what I want to deal with I'll then consider the above mentioned places.

:w00t:

Cool, you'll find that ET have pretty good prices and they're quick too. I got my zorst done while I waited, took less than 2 hrs for them to mod the angle, mount it, add a resonator and get everything welded. top people imho.

-D

Ouch!

Got quoted $500-$600. Think I'll buy the bends and do it myself. :D

Edit: out of curiousity, I rang one place back and said the car was a VL turbo, and the intercooler piping quote dropped $200 :)

Edited by RubyRS4

So you are getting quotes to make up the whole piping or just modify some existing piping?

I thought from your original post that you were just getting something modified?

EDIT!!

I must have read it wrong, i don't know how i read that you were modifying piping.

Go to AAA Exhaust.

I made up a template from poly pipe and PVC fittings took it to them and they bent it up out of stainless. It cost $140 for them to do it including them suppling the piping. Mine was 2 inch and being a 180 is shorter than what you will be making but it will still come in under $250. Then all i had to get was two TIG welds and the piping was done. Like i said earlier they bent up my intake as well.

The welds were done because you have to have 200mm between bends and there were a couple places that they had to be closer.

Pic's;

Image627.jpg

DSCN0069.jpg

Edited by D_stirls
Its not too hard, just need piping done from fmic (2.5") to go down (2.25") to the existing pipework from the removed smic on my Stag.

:P

FMIC behind front bar. 450mm wide core radiator (100mm thick).

Option 1:

Mount it as standard behind bar; from the furthest length/end 180 degree 2.5" bend then straight pipe reduced down to 2.25"; pipe (and bends) to existing pipework from (removed) smic; from the shortest length/end 2.5" pipe reduced to 2.25" to existing pipework from (removed) smic.

Option 2:

Mount it upside down (no need for 180 bend); from the furthest length/end 90 degree 2.5" bend down reduce to 2.25"; 2.25" pipe to 90 degree bend to run under fmic to existing pipework from (removed) smic; from the shortest length/end 90 degree 2.5" bend reduce to 2.25"; to a 90 degree 2.25" bend to existing pipework from (remvoed) smic.

Hopefully I'll have time tonight or tomorrow night to dummy up the intercooler and decide on an option. Then I'll purchase the bends needed.

:woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...