Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have a r33 running a rb25det, just had a 100km service done, and noticed that i have been burnin a s++t load of oil as in drove 1500 km and she was showing low, im using castrol 10w60, i have noticed too that she dosnt idle very nice, well didnt i got the turbo intake looked at and clean there was oil now run a bit better, so im thinking turbo gasket or rings.

hopefully that made some sense, i would really like some ideas on what be wrong and how to check it, coz i dont like my patch of sticking oil in every so often, i have 700km before i have done my first 5000km so going to do filtre and oil, reccomendations

cheers alex :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220021-burning-heaps-of-oil/
Share on other sites

I have a similar problem - been suggested that valve stem seals might need replacing.

Valve stem seals will only cause smoke on initial start up...reason being they are a little rubber cup that stops oil running down your valve stem into the cylinder head while the engine is static...when parked over night or any lenghty period the oil will slowly drip down the valve stems depositing a little puddle in the cylinder....start it up and poof, but it burns off quick. When your engine is running the positive pressure from compression stops most of it and it's such a small amount of oil you wouldn't notice it in normal driving conditions or even be enough to notice on the dipstick over a 5000k service period.

The old "my mechanic say it's only the valve seals" is a very old/dodgy way to sell a dud to someone who sadly doesn't know their ass from their elbow mechanically..

i have a r33 running a rb25det, just had a 100km service done, and noticed that i have been burnin a s++t load of oil as in drove 1500 km and she was showing low, im using castrol 10w60, i have noticed too that she dosnt idle very nice, well didnt i got the turbo intake looked at and clean there was oil now run a bit better, so im thinking turbo gasket or rings.

hopefully that made some sense, i would really like some ideas on what be wrong and how to check it, coz i dont like my patch of sticking oil in every so often, i have 700km before i have done my first 5000km so going to do filtre and oil, reccomendations

cheers alex :thumbsup:

Pull your plugs out and check for oil... The rough idle could be from one or more plugs oiling up...do a compression test, just a guess but I's say #6 maybe oily and a little down.

i have the same problem to

i did i compression test at a workshop and my 5th piston was down 50% to the factory settings.

so i brought a new bottom end with 40,000km on it and it looks like im going to have fun :thumbsup:

yeh agreed with the people saying check your plugs to see how blackened they are then a compression test if they are fairly black.

cheers, Andrew

if you dont mind me asking how much for the bottom and the install, sounds like a lot of $$$$, makes me not smile, hmmmm,

i have the same problem to

i did i compression test at a workshop and my 5th piston was down 50% to the factory settings.

so i brought a new bottom end with 40,000km on it and it looks like im going to have fun :teehee:

yeh agreed with the people saying check your plugs to see how blackened they are then a compression test if they are fairly black.

cheers, Andrew

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...