Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people

My specifications of my car are listed below

My car after getting its new-found power has beeen buring oil alot

I had a perfect compression before the upgrade of all 155psi

At first it was running Full synthetic ROYAL PURPLE 10W-40W.... and that will only last Max 2000km

Now im running PENRITE HPR 30 20w-60w and the Not bad but still my catch can is spitting out.

Am i using the wrong oil or do i have an engine problem

It usually does the damage when @ high revs

Now what might the problem ?????

cheers in advanced

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220064-oil-problem/
Share on other sites

hrmm, standard engine? yes you will have to get used to it. unless you replace the pistons. you have got ring flutter. very common on engines with "factory ring gaps"

unfortunatly not much you can do. just get a custom catch can made that drains back to the sump.

no matter what oil you use it will come out. have you checked the compression latly? doesnt take much to crack a ring land on the initial tune following the mods.

also, check the turbo. i have seen worn bearings in them alow boost to leak past the compressor wheel and presurise the sump..

(happenend to me, filled the can in 5 mins up the old road once)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220064-oil-problem/#findComment-3880886
Share on other sites

Nice........... I hear a slap...i think it is from the Timing belt

i know that need to be replaced

These catch can the return oil to the sump................ where can purchase these catch cans

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220064-oil-problem/#findComment-3881014
Share on other sites

I'm not sure thats good advice? I have 314rwkw on stock internals, and same turbo. I don't even have a catch can, and I don't burn a single drop of oil. Mate, whever tuned your car might have done it too agressively now its stuffed a ring land.

The catch can back into the sump idea is also a bad one, as that oil is trashed and shouldn't be used again. I'd do a compression and leak down test, and start putting aside about $4k for a rebuild just in case. Also

Also, I've been running Shell Helix 5w40 for the past 3 years and it seems to be really good as I have almost no engine wear. All of these expensive oils seem to be a bit of a waste to me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220064-oil-problem/#findComment-3881259
Share on other sites

I'm not sure thats good advice? I have 314rwkw on stock internals, and same turbo. I don't even have a catch can, and I don't burn a single drop of oil. Mate, whever tuned your car might have done it too agressively now its stuffed a ring land.

The catch can back into the sump idea is also a bad one, as that oil is trashed and shouldn't be used again. I'd do a compression and leak down test, and start putting aside about $4k for a rebuild just in case. Also

Also, I've been running Shell Helix 5w40 for the past 3 years and it seems to be really good as I have almost no engine wear. All of these expensive oils seem to be a bit of a waste to me.

Sounds like Right.............. Mafia im still running off a stock manifold too

The oil in the catch can looks pretty clean man......i dunno what going on

4k for a rebuild you sure............bel garage said about 7k without the manifolds

BTW penrite hpr 30 only cost $28 for 3L

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220064-oil-problem/#findComment-3881741
Share on other sites

hrmm, standard engine? yes you will have to get used to it. unless you replace the pistons. you have got ring flutter. very common on engines with "factory ring gaps"

unfortunatly not much you can do. just get a custom catch can made that drains back to the sump.

no matter what oil you use it will come out. have you checked the compression latly? doesnt take much to crack a ring land on the initial tune following the mods.

also, check the turbo. i have seen worn bearings in them alow boost to leak past the compressor wheel and presurise the sump..

(happenend to me, filled the can in 5 mins up the old road once)

did u notice any noise with the worn bearings in the turbo?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/220064-oil-problem/#findComment-3894362
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...